The Magic of Chianti

Friday, Aug. 11

Ah, the Anglo-Saxon dream of Tuscany. Thanks to E. M. Forster, Helena Bonham Carter and, it seems, every English author of note from Browning on, Tuscany is the epicenter of the northern dream of the aesthetic, sensuous South.  Which is why the place is packed with British expats and Americans attending cooking schools (Italy's version of humanitarian aid). 

I wanted me a piece of that dream, too.  Specifically a bit of wine magic.

Enter my one contact in Tuscany, Tony Sasa.

After many phone calls and emails, we finally managed to hook up with Tony. Or he managed to hook up with us, since he picked us up at the Hotel Minerva in Siena and took us to Poggibonsi, where we left the main road and headed for the hills.  We drove for miles through classic Tuscan countryside, and as he drove Tony kept apologizing for not having been able to arrange more visits, but vacations were taking their toll.

He shouldn't have worried.  We had a wonderful afternoon at Le Fonti, and for Richard and Amy, on their first visit to Italy, it was the high point of the trip.

As frequent visitors to this site may remember, I attended a tasting in January, hosted by Tony, where several excellent aziende were represented, memorably Schiavenza of Barolo.  I was lucky enough to sit at a table with Le Fonti's oenologist, Paolo Caciorgna, and agronomist, Lorenzo Bernini.  The wines and olive oil knocked me out, so I leapt at the chance to see them and visit the cantina. 

It turned out that Paolo and Lorenzo weren't there (note to self: don't visit Italian wineries in August), but the owner of the property, Ferdinando Imberti, was. 

We sampled most of Le Fonti's wines, from the basic Chianti classico to the top Vito Arturo cru.  The high level of quality, from simplest and least expensive to the most ambitious, was impressively consistent -- a testament to the dedication and collaboration of Paolo and Lorenzo.

Tasting Notes Don't Tell the Story...

Mine don't, unfortunately.  But something is better than nothing, and I want to share with you the remarkable quality and style of these wines.

1. Chianti Classico "Meraviglie" 2004 (7 euros at Le Fonti) -- an extremely pleasant "base wine."  Without the excessive acidity that sometimes mars lower end Chianti.  Imported by Weygandt-Metzler of Unionville, PA.

2. Chianti Classico 2004 (8 euros at Le Fonti) -- rounder and fruitier than Meraviglie, longer in wood (all new French oak).  A recognizable Chianti but with a finesse that belies its rather modest appellation.

3. Chianti Riserva 2003 (18 euros at Le Fonti) -- this wine spends 18 months in new barriques.  I loved it in New York last January, and I loved it at the source (my little joke: fonti = source or springs).  This is a Riserva that is made to accompany the hearty, savory food of the region, whether it be wild boar or that delicious Florentine beef.

4. Vito Arturo IGT 2003 -- this is Le Fonti's cru, grown on a plot of about 2 hectares.  Its name comes from Mr. Imberti's father, who bought Le Fonti in 1955.  This wine is sumptuous, rich, headily perfumed.  It's practically a vino di meditazione, or, to borrow another phrase I've reported in the past few days, a vino di conversazione.  Not to say that it's a heavy, overly concentrated fruit bomb.  Not at all.  But it can accompany a meal or simply be savored on its own, fitting Aristide's criterion for a really excellent wine: it should be able to fulfill both roles, and be fully enjoyable in each.

With each of these wines we ascended a stairway of quality and refinement, of power and balance.  In each of them we tasted the same craft and intelligence, evident in the vineyard work of Lorenzo and the winemaking of Paolo.  Ferdinando gave the two men full credit for turning Le Fonti around since 1996, when he brought them on board to improve what had been typical, unexceptional wines of the region.  They have become true collaborators, with Lorenzo and his team assuring Paolo of high-quality grapes.  And Paolo brings in his knowledge, honed by twenty years' work with over 30 wineries throughout Italy (and beyond), to produce consistently elegant wines at every price range.

Two More Surprises

Tony took out two more wines for us to taste.  One was something of a surprise, given Ferdinando's insistence on Sangiovese in purezza in his Chiantis; he scorned the supertuscans. 

The first surprise was a blend of Sangiovese and 10-15% Cabernet Sauvignon.  The wine is called Mattia (2004), named after Mr. Imberti's son, who is about 18 years old.  Its cost at the winery is 10 euros, and it is a very nice choice for those who think that pure Sangiovese is just too assertive or astringent.  This was a wine that I could have bet Richard would love, since he is a big California drinkdrinker.  He loved them all, but this was a special favorite of his.

Then the piece de resistance.  I mentioned that I loved vinsanto, but that too many of them were pretty unremarkable.  Good for dunking cantuccini into and not much else.  He opened at 1999 Vinsanto del Chianti Classico (16.80 euros at the cantina).  This was a vinsanto to beat all: rich, multilayered, smooth, complex, floral, with an ability to manifest new flavors and aromas in your glass.  As Ken said, "This is the only vinsanto I've ever had that reminded me of Sauternes -- not in its flavor but in its complexity."  Absolutely true.

But Wait, There Was More

Tony and Ferdinando also served some bread and cheese as we tasted their olive oil.  Another knockout.  Fresh, flavorful, it tasted like the color green to me.  Intense and savory.  I had had the oil at the tasting in New York, too, but it wasn't available for sale then.  This time we visiting Americans ordered 3 cases of the stuff. 

Not to mention cases of vinsanto, Vito Arturo, the Riserva and Mattia (Richard!).  A grand total of 12 cases of wine and oil.  Extraordinary stuff, all of it. 

Whatever it is Paolo and Lorenzo are doing, it seems like magic to a visitor like me. But we know it's the product of unceasing labor, study, trial and error, and a dedication to quality that shows no sign of having reached any limits.

Fantasy time:  "Welcome to my Tuscany."

Comments

[Fredric Koeppel]

You are one lucky son of a bitch.

[Gourmet]

Ciao Terry!!!
Sono contenta che la tua vacanza in Italia ti abbia fatto conoscere dei posti meravigliosi come qs... E Siena è davvero bellissima.. :-)
Se ti fermi ancora per qualche gg da quelle parti ti consiglio una visita ai miei amici di Villa Curina a Castelnuovo Berardenga.. trovi il link nel mio blog..
P.s. Se sei a New York alla fine di Ottobre mi sa che magari possiamo bere un bicchiere di vino assieme.. ;-)
Un abbraccio

[Terry Hughes]

FK, you betcha.

Cara S, sai dove trovarmi, e si' saro' a NY sgobbando...

TH

[David]

I also like Le Fonti, I have not had the Olive Oil but the wine is a good staple for any cellar. Passion always shows in the end product!

[Richard & Amy]

A truly memorable experience. Our gracious hosts Tony and Ferdinando were as wonderful as the wines they served. Ottimo!! Terry, you know the right people!!

[Terry Hughes]

Hey, it was a great day for me too! I was so glad it worked out...Tony Sasa is a terrific guy, so hats off to him again.

I told Ken I was so pleased that it worked out because I wanted you guys to see I'm not just a BS artist. (I said, Not JUST a BS artist.)

Can't wait for the stuff to be delivered.