A "Chips Free" Movement in Italy

Our good friend in Verona, Giampiero Nadali, alias Aristide, is spearheading a campaign against the use of wood chips in Italian wine. 

As you may know, several months ago the EU decreed that winemakers could use wood chips to impart that toasty oaky flavor that is so popular with many drinkers today.  This was an obvious ploy to try and compete head to head against New World producers. 

Aristide and I both deplore this ruling.  I, for one, don't believe that allowing chips is going to help European winemakers to compete more effectively.  Wood chips really aren't the answer to competitive disadvantages; sharper marketing and more realistic pricing are. 

Giampiero Nadali feels even more strongly about the issue than I do.  His proposal, which is being taken up by some winemakers, is that the wine labels of producers who refuse to use chips should declare so. They'll put the Chips Free logo or some other visible announcement of their Chips Free status on the label -- on an honor system.

This is where I become skeptical.  I think having a Chips Free zone, so to speak, is a great idea.  This is analogous to the rise of organic and biodynamic wines -- and these have proved not only to be popular but excellent quality as well.  But there is a whole inspection process that accompanies the organic/biodynamic designation; verification is needed and given.

Self-regulation sounds great in theory.  It works if everyone is above board and honest.  But the wine business has always had people who fudge and lie and adulterate.  It's part of the human condition.  Documentary evidence of this extends well into antiquity. 

What makes you think that all the people who declare themselves to be "Chips Free" really will be?  After all, there may well be producers whose wines you are drinking now -- and not only Australian or American -- who are using chips while they claim to put their wines into new American oak for six months, etc. 

What do you think about this initiative?  Is it an unbureaucratic way to help assure integrity and transparency in winemaking?  Is it a good first step?  Or is it quixotic and likely to come to nothing? 

Let's hear your thoughts on this important topic.

Comments

[David]

I also strongly disagree with this ruling but I think the Italians will do as they have in the past and require definition of how the wine is made. Already many things produced in Germany and France may not be sold in Italy as wine. Perhaps this will be one more differentiating factor for Italian wines.

[Terry Hughes]

I hope it will be. Italy's wines are so terrific for their price and for the fresh, lively flavors that they offer -- at the very least -- that you hope the producers wont lose their heads and blindly follow the market, or what they think is the American market. Which I do hope and believe is slowly changing...

[Giampiero alias Aristide]

Terry, you wrote that I'm spearheading "a campaign against the use of wood chips in Italian wine". Please, let me correct you on a small but important aspect, almost for me: "Chips Free" it's not against oak chips (or their substitutes) in wine or against the producers that use them.
It's a campaign in favor of all the others producers that don't use oak chips in their wines. I want to help them to communicate to the market that they are "Chips Free", I want to inform consumers.
That's all.
And thank you very much for your coverage!
Ciao.

[Terry Hughes]

You're right -- your approach is much more positive than the way I stated it. Thanks fo rthe clarification!