Have I written about this wonderful wine before on mondosapore? If not, I should have. After all, it is a product of the renowned Jean Thevenet's industry, know-how and genius.
I put a link on the site a long time ago because I was first introduced to this lovely Maconnais by a friend in Paris a few years ago. He drives to Burgundy to pick it up for about 13 euros a bottle. We drank it at a charming bistro (L'Entredgeux) in an uncharming part of Paris (the 17th) -- 20 euros, quite a remarkable price for a wine this good.
Suddenly the wine has become widely available here in Manhattan, at least in my neighborhood, for a reasonable $22 price. The 1999 has only improved.
With a warm, rich, rather tawny color and an almost tarry, fruity aroma, this complex Chardonnay confounds all one's expectations about the grape -- if one is a New World type of guy -- even though Thevenet is known for harvesting very late and for encouraging noble rot on some of his Domaine Bongran wines. Certainly this wine is warm with residual sugars. Ken said, "it reminds me of a Meursault. It's that rich."
Domaine Emilian Gillet 1999 is indeed rich, complex, simultaneously light and heady, austere and luscious, admirably balanced. It comes from a tiny portion of his land holdings and has, to my tongue, a riveting distinctiveness. M. Thevenet inveigles everything that's to be had out of the grape, with new depths of flavor and scent appearing as the air embraces it, and the seductive pleasure of drinking it is proof enough of his artistry. Thevenet reminds us why France is still, so often, the great wine teacher.
Sorry, I couldn't find a photo of the 1999.
Too lazy to take one.
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