We took our friend Peter and his partner out for his birthday Wednesday night -- to yet another Italian eatery in Alphabet City. The food was pretty straightforward but very well prepared. The wine list was 100% Italian, and terrific. Let's start with the wines, since this is a wine blog.
I wanted Peter to celebrate with the kinds of wines he would like -- usually red. And I was eager to share with him some of the wines that I have had some "personal" connection with, however slight. (This strategy also made for some good conversation about our trip to Italy, so Ken and I had the chance to luxuriate in that golden past.)
Bottom line: I was delighted at the success my wine picks had with our guest of honor.
We started with a bottle of Albino Armani Pinot Nero. Peter immediately remarked on the pure, light color. The graceful, fragrant flavor and silky mouth feel made this Pinot Nero a big hit at the table. It paired well with our starters but would have been almost as good as an aperitif. I had liked this wine well enough at the tasting where I met Egle Armani, but I admit that it really did shine in the context of a meal.
As we began our main courses, we treated Peter (and ourselves) to a bottle of the Accordini Stefano "Acinatico" Amarone, one of the many wines we tasted with Daniele Accordini at his family's winery in August. That day was a memorable one, thanks to the efforts of our Veronese friends, Giampiero and Lizzy. On this occasion, the contrast between the Amarone and the Armani PN was dramatic, of course. And of course, for this very reason, we loved this wine's rich depth and muted tannins.
Il Bagatto has been doing business since 1995, which means it was something of a pioneer when that part of the LES was a drug-infested hellhole. It also has a winebar next door, appropriately named Il Posto Accanto, which is where the wines we ordered were fetched from. (Each place has a different wine list, but you can order from either with no problem.) Il Bagatto is very small, perhaps a little worn-looking but pleasantly casual, a feeling that's enhanced by what seems to be a good contingent of regulars. (Correct me if I'm wrong on this point, Gabrio. [The place is run by Gabrio's brother-in-law and Il Posto Accanto is under the guidance of his sister.])
As I said at the beginning of this post, the food was very well-prepared but less inventive (and therefore, to me, more satisfying) than some of the dishes at Ken's favorite, the nearby Perbacco. I had simple, cholesterol-free dishes that evening: cannellini beans and penne arrabbiate (they were really mad, too -- very hot, piccante), both cooked just right, savory and satisfying. Ken's gnocchi were light and flavorful. And our friends seemed to enjoy their food, so much that Peter said, "We'll come back here."
I will too, although I will endeavor not to spend so much on wine.
Hey Terry,
My sister is in charge of the Kitchen and of brunch Saturday and Sunday. Her husband Julio runs the front and the administrative part. I must say they complete each other.
Next time try from the next door list San Giusto a Rentennano PerCarlo 1999 and in the mid price range the Talenti Rosso Talenti 2001 (not to be confused with the Rosso di Montalcino). Other little jewel is Bibi Graetz Il Soffocone di Vincigliata 2003 (ask you friend from Tuscany what Soffocone means :) blend of Sangiovese and small amount of Ciliegiolo and Colorino.
Food wise Il Bagatto is more a Trattoria and Il Posto Accanto is an enoteca so you will find more unsual plates there like the Trippa or the Ravioli con la coda .
Ciao a Tutti
Eat Well Drink Better.
Posted by: Gabrio | November 04, 2006 at 05:23 PM
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Posted by: joseph | September 19, 2009 at 04:50 PM