Quickie: Wine Notes at Falai

Warren treated us to dinner at Falai last night, where we had a tasting menu chosen by Alberto, the manager and sommelier, in collusion with Ken.  All different dishes from the last time, thanks to Alberto's encyclopedic memory. 

We sat in the display window, at the uncrowded and relatively quiet table for four.  (Discretion forbids me from mentioning who the fourth person was, but she was smart, charming and all-round lovely.)  It was another long long meal, from about 9:30 to 12:30, and the service was unflaggingly attentive and friendly.

Good as all that was (ottimo!), I wanted to bestir myself from my food-and-wine-induced torpor this morning to report briefly (?) on two of the wines we had.  No, make that three.

Movia Ribolla Gialla 2004

I love Ribolla Gialla with its tart fruit and its light-textured richness.  I was eager to try the Movia version, since that Italo-Slovenian winery is well-regarded in Italy. Dr. Vino wrote a glowing review of this wine.  Our table, however, found it a bit schvach.  (In Italian I guess that would be scialbo. In English it's something like, Eh.) A real disappointment.

Dorigo Schioppettino 2004

I asked Alberto for a nice, rather light red.  He nixed my suggestion and came up with this one.  I had read about the Schioppettino grape, a native of a restricted zone in northeastern Italy, and as I'm a sucker for indigenous varieties, I was eager to try it. 

This wine was no disappointment.  I feel compelled to quote from the azienda's web site:

Schioppettino is also known as Ribolla Nera. A native variety, it is difficult to manage and to vinify, but the wine it gives is intriguing. We have recently planted a high-density plot at 10,000 vines per hectare to enhance concentration and we'll be seeing the first results in a couple of years' time. For the time being, we thin the crop in the vineyard by 30%, and draw off some of the must at the start of fermentation in the cellar. Vinification is in stainless steel tanks and maturation in barriques of French (80%) and American (20%) oak lasts for eight months.

Schioppettino's distinctive feature is its nose, which is dominated by characteristic notes of green pepper layered over red fruit and leather. The palate is perfectly balanced, lingering, and velvet-smooth.

We also got strong aromas of smoky bacon. 

This is a dynamic, sensuous wine.  Not huge depth but a great deal of complexity in its nose and as it caresses the tongue. 

Hauner Malvasia delle Lipari

And so finally to dessert.  The various dolci the staff brought us were intriguing, complex and rich, and fortunately in small portions. This wine, from the famous azienda based in the Aeolian Islands, off the north coast of Sicily, was a fitting accompaniment to the desserts. Rich and  balanced, its sweetness did not compete with the good stuff on the plate, and its earthiness matched well with the rosemary and other spices that enlivened the last course.

Another big night at Falai.  Hugely satisfying -- food, wine, service, the overall experience. 

Now I'll go on a saltines and weak-tea diet for a few days...

Comments

[vittorio rusinà]

Mi dispiace che la Ribolla di Movia non abbia incontrato tuo gusto, ma attenzione a che temperatura l'hai degustata? (va servita a temperatura cantina, non fredda!), va aperta un pò prima...e soprattutto non bisogna aspettarsi un vino che piace subito, quanto un vino delicato, molto minerale, non facile di sicuro. Bisogna essere guidati da qualche maestro nell'avvicinarsi alla rebula (ribolla).
Guarda anche il post http://www.vinography.com/archives/2006/09/2003_movia_ribolla_brda_sloven.html

[Terry Hughes]

Vittorio, ti assicuro, tutti i vini sono stati serviti comme il faut, ma per noi questo era deludente, senza una distinzione particolare. Niente di ecceppibile, pero' niente di eccezionale. Mi dispiace, ma ci ha colpiti cosi'.

[Dr. VIno]

Hey Terry,

I thought the Movia RG was great when the winery's owner poured it for me at a trade tasting. Since then my experience has been mixed (note: all mine were with the 03). One bottle I had was oxydized. Two others really needed air before reaching their peak. I think this is an age-worthy white. I'd like to cellar some for five years and see how it goes.

Cheers,

[Terry Hughes]

Great bottle to bottle variability, eh? Hm. The downside of artisanal charm, perhaps.

Maybe this RG was going through its awkward phase. But to me it seemed as though the acidity level wasn't high enough to keep it lively. A vintage issue?

[Richard]

So, the Movia is rated as Terry Yucky Sauce??

[Terry Hughes]

Not yucky, it was OK. But just OK for all the noise the winery (or the winemaker) generates.

[Fredric Koeppel]

On the other hand, the Dorigo sounds fascinating. It must be available in NYC?

[Terry Hughes]

It was strepitoso, as they say. I believe it is available around here and will check on it.

[Terry Hughes]

FK, the Schioppettino is $44.99 (retail) at Astor. I loved it but I'm glad I wasn't paying for it.

[JOhn]

I've always suggested at forums that the best wine should be selected in an event and it seems a lot of people are supporting my argument. So does this blog :D