What Italian wines need: big-time at-home tastings

On Christmas night, as we waited for our flight to board, I met an engaging couple from the Upper West Side at the airport bar.  The husband was a physician, and his wife told me that he had a 1600-bottle cellar in their block-long apartment.  This impressed me, because I can scarcely fit three cases in my "cellar." 

He told me that they had recently had a tasting with a group of friends at their place at which the Ch. Petrus (in a vertical tasting) flowed like $8 Shiraz.  This also impressed me; I currently get stressed over shelling out $20 for a bottle.

When I told them that I had a blog specializing in Italian wine, they both said, "We don't know much about Italian wine beyond Barolo and Brunello.  We wish we knew more."

I gave them my usual sound bite about "the world of flavors" and the rich variety of Italian wine.  I have wondered since then how I would demonstrate some of the variety and richness of Italian wine to people like them, who are used to the best France has to offer, and who are correspondingly exigeant.  But, in a sense, I feel almost as overwhelmed as they might: 

Where to begin? What to choose? How to conclude -- without necessarily resorting to the tried-and-true Barolos and Brunellos they have already experienced?  And how might this tasting be a springboard for more exploration?

It's an interesting set of questions, because they are the very ones that bedevil so many marketers and wine educators with regard to Italy's infinite variety (or limitless confusion) of wines. 

Any suggestions while I mull this over myself?

 

Comments

[Gabrio Tosti]

All the Aia's from Tuscany Amarone and Sforzato Most of the Langhe Rosso the wines from the Italian California AKA Sicily Higher end from Campania like Trerra di Lavoro, Montevetrano and De Conciliis Zero.
Obviously there is more but we need to talk in person because is a long list.Ciao

[Fredric Koeppel]

If Gabrio will forgive me, I would start with the opposite tack and introduce the neophytes to the variety of Italian wine with what is pleasurable and enjoyable and work my way up, you know, Barbera d'Asti and Dolcetto and the better Valpolicella, the hearty wines of the bootheel and so on, touching on what is authentic and often eccentric. The "aia" wines, while often truly fine and memorable, don't necessarily represent the traditions of the Italian regions, vines and techniques because they are made from non-indigenous grapes and aged in French barrique.

[Terry Hughes]

Wonderful suggestions, gents. I tend to favor FK's approach, especially as concerns the indigenous varieties, although I do like your choices, Gabrio. (Except for all those -aia wines.)

Remember, though, the people I have in mind are not wine neophytes, just not really familiar with Italian wines. The trick is to challenge and amaze them, maybe shake them out of their "French is best" mentality. (Which used to be mine too, years ago.)

Any more ideas, suggestions?

[alex]

Terry,
what of an interesting challenge.
To help you, we need some more information:
- there will be just one encounter or many?
- only reds or also whites, sparkling and sweet wines?
- will you have a dinner or merely taste wines? (if positive, details on the food are compulsory)
- what is the budget you have set for the duel?

Brainstorming: you might dare an "original" approach:
- bardolino, valpolicella, ripasso, amarone, recioto, soave (telling them that they all come from a ray of 20 miles around Verona and surprising them with the price/quality ratio)
- lagrein, blauburgunder, riesling, gewurztraminer, kerner (telling them that they all come from a ray of 30 miles in Southtyrol and surprising them with the price/quality ratio)
- the same with "Campania" or "Sicilian" wines (up to you the choice)

- the best "bordolese blend" italian wine (cabernet franc/cab sauvignon/merlot). I remember that there has been a festival (ask Aristide or Lizzy for details)
- a sangiovese 100% and a supertuscan with international grapes added

Enjoy yourself and keep us informed.
ciao
alex

p.s. what does AIA means?

[Fede]

Don't forget AMARONE!

Sincerely, I'd organize a tasting following a grape variety scheme, instead a regional scheme (which is typical to France assembled wines). Start from ehat they know and expand:

Nebbiolo grape, from known Barolo move around to Barbaresco, switch to Novara's Ghemme, then Gattinara, Roero and cross region to Valtellina Sforzato.

The same do with Sangiovese. From Brunello (is quite pure Sangiovese), try some pure SG tuscans (fontalloro, flacianello della pieve), then move around to good chiantis (like giorgio I or rancia, or Castello di ama), then cross the appennini and go to superb romagna sangiovese. Talk about history (the granducato of tuscany and the diffusion of sangiovese) and so on...

I think a good tasting of Italian wines can be a wonderful fil-rouge to talk also about our culture, country and history (and foreign people love this too)

Ciao! FEde

[Terry Hughes]

My word, you have some fine suggestions!

Alex, I was thinking of a one-time event, no dinner. That might restrict the sheer number of wines -- if not the variety. I must say that I love your (intense) regional focus, eg, the variety you get in 20 miles. (And -aia = Sassicaia, Ornellaia, etc.)

Fede, first of all, how could one forget Amarone? Never. Again, you have an excellent thematic approach, which is intellectually satisfying. And there's nothing more pleasing for Upper West Siders than to have an educational narrative to accompany things ;)).

So much excellent input -- Thanks!

[Fede]

Terry, you don't know how much I'd like to sit down at those upper west side tables talking about Italy from the food-wine point of view! Unfortunately I'm not in NYC and I can only dream of that... Let us know if you set up some events and need some suggestions! I have made several dinners like that! Complimenti per il blog! Ciao! Federico!

[Fredric Koeppel]

But wouldn't you want to do this at a restaurant, not merely to soothe the entry of alcohol into the stomachs but to show how Italian food and wine go together so beautifully...... you could still do the wines in pairs with each course, so maybe 10 or 12 wines altogether.

[Gabrio Tosti]

Aia's are to impress the crowd. If ythey drink verticals of Petrus like is water you need to get their attention letting them drink of what they heard about.
Also without debating on indigenous or not Incisa della Rocchetta is part of the history of Italian wines like Sergio Manetti (montevertine) and believe it or not the Antinori family.
Than I didn't forget the Amarone and I also included the Sforzato Fay or Negri ar both very good.
Also from Tuscany La Ricolma and Percarlo from SanGiusto a Rentennano are great and not too expensive for what they are.
FK there is no right or wrong in wine so never the need to forgive :)
Buona Bevuta a Tutti

[Fredric Koeppel]

Gabrio, you are too good...... Grazie.

[pierovini]

Effettivamente i grandi rossi italiani, per veri motivi, vanno necessariamente gustati a casa!! Buona salute!! Pierluigi