You heard it here first. In English anyway.
Nero d'Avola, that much touted grape from Sicily and the source of some of that island's most prestigious red wines, is considered to be a cliche' in the hippest and bestest Italian wine bars.
According to Fiorenzo Sartore, who owns the wineshop "La Botte Piena" near Genoa, the only people drinking the stuff these days are "female fashion victims about twenty years old." Fiorenzo himself confesses to loving the stuff, and he recommends it even when those supposedly in the know give him a strange look. What's more, he has expressed his firm solidarity with those young, lovely, female fashion victims...
(Note: the Italian phrase for "a fashion victim" is una fashion victim.)
Thank God we're behind the times here in the US; Nero d'Avola's just becoming a bit known over here, and it's damned good stuff. The best I've had so far is the one pictured here, Don Antonio by Morgante.
Terry, imhoNero d'Avola is one good way to start to drink wine... I think MOST of the Nero d'Avolas have (too) strong aroma, flavour, bouquet... And a non well trained nose can clearly perceive this (also women in their twenties, which are yes, fashion victims but also unexperienced in wine). Moreover, Nero d'Avola is usually a non expensive bottle, high in alcohol volume and average quality.
When I began to drink wine years ago with my brother, when we lived together in Milan, we had drunk for some time Nero d'Avola: Baglio Hopps, Firriato, Morgante, Cusumano and some others, then we moved to more complex wines. After some years from that time I think about Nero d'Avola as a good initiation to drink and quite never I get a glass of that now. I only have two more elegant (but less "fashion") Nero d'Avola to suggest you to try: Saia (by Feudo Maccari) and Gulfi (very very elegant, try this one)
Ciao! Fede
Posted by: Federico | January 23, 2007 at 12:00 PM
Fede, the qualities you mention make Nero d'Avola something of a star, or a possible star, in the international firmament. Big and bold and fruity, but capable of subtlety -- something well suited to the American (not only) taste. It may be that the "Sicilian moment" has passed in Italy -- it seems to have -- but it's only just beginning overseas.
I take your point; I drink it less than I used to. There are many evenings when I want something less assertive with my dinner.
But, overall, I'm with Fiorenzo on this wine. It has a special character that is bathed in the southern sun.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | January 23, 2007 at 12:22 PM
Omigod
what will I tell the fashionistas to drink now?
sounds like Italian spin to me...maybe they just dont get Shiraz! ;)
Posted by: Alfonso | January 23, 2007 at 06:13 PM
Alfonso, I hardly know what to say. Maybe you should advise the young fashionistas to drink balsamic vinegar. It costs a lot, comparatively speaking, and it's a diuretic, isn't it?
Posted by: Terry Hughes | January 23, 2007 at 08:36 PM
WOW! If one is to drink a 100% Nero D'Avola one will never go wrong with the big papa in the morgante line. The entry level form year to year can get a little roller coaster-like but the one you have pictured is a beaut! Also, if your diggin on the full on Nero D'Avola if you haven't yet try the Firriato Chiaramonte. I haven't had the latest vintage but it has been a solid wine for about three years for me.
EVWG
Posted by: East Village Wine Geek | January 23, 2007 at 09:19 PM
Terry, I agree with you: Nero d'Avola could be a star in the International firmament, but note it is a native cultivar from a small part of Sicily and I dont' think it is possible to plant this anywhere else (so it might have a problem of quantity/quality). I drank many other sicilian wines and they all have in common this strenght in flavour and aroma: if you taste for example a cabernet sauvignon by Tasca d'Almerita, a Merlot or a Shiraz by Planeta and I'm sure you can hardly recognize the grape they are made from. The sicilian sunbath (nice!) is the main character you probably feel, and this is also the point of strenght for some producers but also a problem for others who try to extract a more complex and elegant product from those sunny wineyards... Ciao!
Posted by: Federico | January 24, 2007 at 04:35 AM
Il Don Antonio di Morgante è stato uno dei miei primi amori, un vino assai buono(ti consiglio anche il Nero d'Avola base di Morgante, poco costoso - in Italia 8 euro- ma buono assai). Morgante, l'azienda che lo produce, coltiva nei suoi vigneti solo uva nero d'avola.
Ti consiglio anche di assaggiare i vini siciliani prodotti nella zona vulcanica dell'Etna (Catania): Benanti fra tutti (esportano negli Usa).
Posted by: rusvitt | January 25, 2007 at 05:53 PM
Vitorio, ho bevuto un paio ( ;)) ) di bottiglie del loro vino base -- ottimo a $15US.
EVWG, I have had the Firriato, which I also liked. Still preferred Don Antonio, though.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | January 25, 2007 at 06:02 PM