Last fall I tasted the 2004 Foja Tonda wine made by Albino Armani up in the northernmost reaches of Veneto. The variety, rescued from near extinction by the Armanis, was given DOC status late last year, and seems to be part of the winery's strategy to link the Foja Tonda and Armani brand identities. There are so many Italian wines competing for a place in the export-market sun -- not to mention the crowded shelves in Italian enoteche -- that this positioning strategy makes some sense. As I mentioned in a post last week, other aziende are experimenting with old peasant varieties headed for oblivion, hoping to reintroduce some local flavor into their offerings.
My own impression of the 2004 Foja Tonda was of, shall we say, cautious interest. I had liked several Armani wines considerably more, especially the pure and compulsively drinkable Io Domenico Pinot Nero, which I get from De Vino by the case. Here's how I characterized the Foja Tonda in November:
Not a wine of great finesse. But a wine of robust character that can take on strongly spiced and flavored food. A hell of a lot of fun to drink and to write about.
Executive summary: Foja Tonda, a wine for hearty eaters who have a sort of rugged vitality. [Jesus, I really wrote that?] If the Marlboro drank wine...he'd go for this.
In another context I said it reminded me of Marlon Brando in "The Wild One." This was a colorful way of expressing my reservations.
When Domenico told me he was going to the Armanis' cantina for dinner and a vertical tasting of Foja Tonda back to 1997, I enjoined him to take good notes and to be honest. "If it's just OK, say so."
"The wine is tannic and acidic enough to age well," he replied. "Stolid prima materia."
That's what I was afraid of. "You mean solid raw material."
"Ahhh, mi spiace!" (Sorry!)
So Dom sent me his notes and some pix. And he answered the question, "Is Foja Tonda ageworthy?"
Albino in action
The first vintage of Foja Tonda dates from 1994. The tasting featured bottles from 2004, 2000, 1998 and 1997.
Fifteen or so people gathered in the immaculate tasting area of the cellar, swirling, spitting, murmuring and holding their glasses up to the spotlight as Albino talked about the wine, the grapes and the challenges his team faced. Domenico dutifully took notes.
2004 -- rustic nose with leather, even a horsy aroma. Very tannic. Taste rough and peppery at finish. Acids were held in check. "Too young. A lot of people wouldn't like." Reference to "The Wild One" still held.
2000 -- Much less animal scent and taste, tannins mellowed but with a shorter finish, so it seems. As it opened up, finish gets longer, a green vegetal quality comes out, then oranges and cranberries at end. "Interesting evolution." Product of a very warm season. "Rough farmer wine has put on his Sunday best."
1998 -- Much more refined, fruit somewhat in background, more vinous. Far more pleasing perfume, paler, orange-tinted color than 2000. "Long very long finish. Still a little green and vegetal. Fresh-tasting, very good balance. More focused, better structure. Oranges. Sensation of sweetness without actually becoming sweet." As it evolved in glass, almond and apricot notes came out, the wine's complexity revealed. "Like wearing a Loro Piana suit. Comfort and elegance." [Dom once had a Loro Piana suit.]
1997 -- 20% Merlot and tasted like it. Smelled vegetal, like green beans right off the vine. Nice brick-orange color. Refined but the Merlot obscured the Foja Tonda, rendering the wine less distinctive than was perhaps intended.
Consensus of those present: the 1998 was outstanding. "It shows the real potential of the grape. No sign of getting stale or losing its vivacity."
"Terry," Domenico wrote, "you need to give Foja Tonda another chance. With age it really is a fine wine, it becomes very elegant. This 1998 can age for longer, a few years at least. I would love to taste it in 2010!"
So, Albino and Egle, save some for Domenico and me, please...
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