Return to Barbone

David Rodriguez, the peripatetic blogger, hit town.  He said something about a Catalan place and I went, "No, let's go back to your old neighborhood.  We'll go to Barbone."   Avenue B in Alphabet City between 11th and 12th streets.  I hadn't been there in a while, and I wanted to see if the old magic was still there.

The joint was almost deserted when we arrived at 8:45.  I said to Alberto, head chef and sommelier, "Is there room in the garden?"  No. Why would there be on a night like this?  OK, so we sit in the cool quiet comfort of the inside dining room.  No problem -- we can really talk in this atmosphere.

When we were seated Alberto said to me, "When was the last time you were here?"

"A long time.  November or something."

Alberto pointed behind him.  "You sat right there and you ordered --" whatever I ordered.

Now that was impressive.  ("Nice talent to have in this business," David remarked.)  "You know, Alberto, I wrote a --"

"My wife found it.  Thank you."  His wife Entela who makes the delicately crumbly feta that graces the watermelon and mint salad that was my first course.  Perfect for a summer night.

Alberto at work

We didn't sit here

We relaxed over a nice prosecco in which David tasted subtleties that eluded me (fennel?).  The Barbone wine list is varied and well-chosen with an eye to good food pairings.  It's a 100% Italian list but as we know Italy is a wildly diverse wine country, so virtually any flavor profile can be found and taste indulged.  And Barbone's wine prices are more European than American in the sense that the wine is priced reasonably, and not as a luxury item. 

David's first course was lamb's brain ("kind of a mousse" -- which reminds me why sheep are so stupid).  He had a sea bass next, while I went to the chestnut agnolotti at Alberto's suggestion.  Lovely, different, and it made me think of Don Abbondio out nutting in the Lombard woods.

We wanted a light-bodied red that would help us bridge the fish-pasta gap.  I was about to order a 100% Frappato (Valle dell'Acate) but Alberto suggested a 2005 Nero d'Avola-Frappato blend from Planeta.  It was fresh and had a pleasing complexity, a tarriness and burry depth of flavor, that would have been missing from Frappato in purezza.  $32.  I hate to think what it would have cost at another enoteca restaurant. 

I skipped dessert except for the cantucci that they serve gratis.  Well, OK, I did have some vinsanto (didn't like it much) while David had a panna cotta.  Alberto plied us with Moscato -- again, not dainty little glasses but big wine glasses of the lightly sparkling white-peachy stuff.  Good good good.

We were there for almost four hours, talking, laughing, eating and drinking.  No rush, no sense of being hustled out so they could close up.  This dinner gave us a great deal of pleasure.  Air-conditioned pleasure too.

So who needs the garden when you get to talk with Alberto, who's such an interesting, accomplished guy?

 

Barbone

Restaurant & Wine B

Tue-Sat 6:00 PM To 11:30 PM
Sun 5:30 PM To 10:30 PM             
186 avenue b new york ny 10009
            tel: 212 254 6047
          fax: 212 254 6048             

Comments

[David J]

Terry, thanks for the introduction, what a great evening!
I came up Avenue B on my run yesterday & as I went by Barbone I fantasized about having the energy to walk or take a bus back (tho I saw it was a lot busier getting close to nine in the evening)--maybe for his tasting menu??-- but I barely made it a block from the Carlton Arms for some trout at McCormack's, in what must be the 3d Avenue Irish Bar/Pub with the most consistent kitchen around...
I need to find a deal on a prepaid so I can communicate better, haven't made any of the phone calls I *should*...(a suivre...)

[Fredric Koeppel]

Julie and I ate there a couple of years ago. Great place.

[Terry Hughes]

It's not lost its allure. Alberto and his crew have really honed the operation, and it's an accomplished but unpretentious place.

I can't say the same of some other restaurants in that area, which have lost their focus with popularity (like Perbacco).

[East Village Wine Geek]

Terry. How ya been? Man do I love Barbone. I think it is one of the best menus in the East Village. Alberto is one of the nicest restaurant owners I have ever met. I mean genuinely nice. Can't wait to go back. I love that watermelon salad! Almost don't want to eat it because the color and presentation is damn nice. Ciao!

EvWg

[Terry Hughes]

EVWG, great to hear from you!

Yep, Alberto and his restaurant are fantastic. The old magic was intact. His prices are very reasonable too, and not just for the wine. You can see why it's so popular with a young crowd. Present company excluded.