Richard Levy sent me a tasty little news item yesterday. The Pinot Noir genome has been mapped by a team of French and Italian researchers.
Among the findings, published in Nature: The PN grape has 30,000 genes compared to the human total of 20,000 to 25,000. Whether or not this implies a higher level of evolution on the part of the grape, it does relate to the complex array of factors that make the perfumes and flavors of Pinot Noir so varied and intriguing. The AP story tells us:
The team published its findings in Thursday's issue of the journal Nature, saying it identified the nearly half a billion chemical building blocks of the grape's DNA....The team said its research had confirmed that the grape has an unusually high number of genes whose job it is to create flavor. More than 100 of its genes are dedicated to producing tannins and terpenes — compared to about 50 for other plants, said researcher Patrick Wincker.
So the conventional wisdom of PN complexity is backed up by science. Bravo.
But with great knowledge comes great temptation:
He said the mapping of those flavor-producing genes could be a first step toward developing new flavors in wine by allowing scientists to breed different varieties to create precise new tastes.
Bacchus, give us strength.

it had to happen. genetically-enhanced wine. wine can have oak flavors bred INTO it. no more worry about those expensive french oak barrels.
Posted by: Fredric Koeppel | September 28, 2007 at 05:40 PM
God, it's appalling to think about. And will probably happen.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | September 28, 2007 at 05:44 PM
Don't be so catastrophic science has served always both the good and the bad,nuclear energy can be used as clean power solution or as destructive bomb, same the internet and the gun powder.
Knowing the genetic structure of the grape can help us to understand better, giving the "vignaioli" more information in order to make better decision.
I'm sure the big wine industries will start to modify the grapes to achieve taste at a low cost.
So there is no difference with today just to let you know if you eat corn in this country most likely it came from a genetically modified seed (along with tons of other products, included the ones so called ORGANIC)
Buona Bevuta a Tutti
Posted by: gabrio | September 29, 2007 at 10:41 AM
"Served both the good and the bad." Exactly. We can't seem to resist a bargain, especially a Faustian bargain.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | September 29, 2007 at 11:02 AM
This can sure put the old school winemakers, who won't tamper with grape genetics at a great disadvantage down the road.
Posted by: Richard | September 30, 2007 at 09:25 AM