After I visited with friend Gabrio at De Vino this evening, I hied myself to the wine bar that his sister and brother-in-law own just a few blocks uptown. It was very early but, as I told Matt, who works there as bartender and waiter (also as stand-in for Gabrio at the wine shop), "I was down here so..."
I had intended to have light meal and a glass of wine. The road to hell...
I had two so-called "small plates", which actually are rather large. First, a wonderful insalata sfiziosa (how do you translate it? "Yummy salad"?) It featured grilled asparagus, ultra-fresh greens, beans and a snappy oil-vinegar dressing topped with slivers of Parmigiano. Then a very good bistecca ai ferri (grilled beef) on -- what the hell was it? By that time, I was on my second wine, and it was an excellent accompaniment to the beef. Beef served on something grain. Good but a little salty (the grain).
Ah the wine. This is a wine bar after all. The prices are reasonable for New York, and the selection of 100% Italian wines is astute. Much like at De Vino the selection is focused and optimized for value and authenticity. I assume Gabrio still selects the wines for Il Posto Accanto as he did before he opened his shop a couple of years ago. If so, Buon lavoro, Gabrio, even if you be beastin' on Fredric.
First was a glass of Cesconi Moratel 2003, a rich and surprisingly nuanced blend of international and NE Italian grapes It is an interesting blend of mostly "international" grapes (Merlot 42%, Cabernet Franc 22%, Cabernet Sauvignon 20%, Syrah 8% and 8% Teroldego). This is an immensely satisfying wine that represents a huge bargain for its quality. (About $12-15 retail.) Matt remarked, "I don't know why this isn't more popular." I would agree except I think that a lot of people have been brainwashed into thinking that single-varietal wines are always preferable. I paid $10 (?) a glass for this one. The complex cherry and dark-fruit flavors lingered.
I ordered a quarter-carafe (quartino) of a slightly effervescent Lambrusco Reggiano "Solo" 2006 from Medici to go with my bistecca. I ordered it to cut the fat of the beef, and I have to say that I found it earthy and a very good pairing with the steak. But I told Matt that the Cesconi Moratel was more deeply satisfying to me. $14 a quartino.
Finally, I had a glass -- OK, two -- of a sensational Moscato from Veneto. This was the golden-hued and sumptuous Maculan Dindarello 2006. Only $10 a glass and $38 a bottle (375 ml) at Il Posto Accanto. Well, it was still early and I didn't feel like heading 50 blocks uptown just yet. At Winebow they say about this wine:
Dindarello offers the textbook Moscato aromas of citrus, honey and flowers. This wine has a delicate personality with a delicious lingering finish and pleasant acidity. Try it with fruit pies, pastries and crème brulée.
I had this one all on its own. Dai dai eynu. Which means "that's enough for me."
And tomorrow back to Barbone, our new default place to eat and drink well for not an outrageous amount of money. (Forget Lupa, ptui.) God bless Alphabet City.
I wasn't doing anything to Koeppel, I love him (empirically), I was beastin the back label of the Orlando Furioso wine.
You are a trouble maker :)
I need to get the Dindarello back at the store.
Ciao
Posted by: gabrio | September 30, 2007 at 10:03 AM
Me? A troublemaker? Nooooooooo.
BTW, what's with all the Brits in il Posto Accanto? Did it get into some UK guidebook?
Posted by: Terry Hughes | September 30, 2007 at 10:06 AM
Lot's of European in general yesterday in the shop few Spaniards several Brits and some Canadian and French.
I felt very cosmopolitan :)
Posted by: gabrio | September 30, 2007 at 11:15 AM
You are, my boy, you are!
BTW, why exactly are the lights so low in Il Posto Accanto? A British couple, no longer young, couldn't make out the menu at all, even though a candle was lighted for them. I told them it was like a crypt. Mood lighting is fine but blackout lighting??
Posted by: Terry Hughes | September 30, 2007 at 11:49 AM
Sounds like a great place to have a snack or two and a couple of good glasses of wine. We'll have to try it next time.
Posted by: fredric koeppel | September 30, 2007 at 06:18 PM
Actually, the food is quite good, and it's easy to make a feed of it.
Same with In Vino on 4th street. The kitchen is really great, far better than the designation "wine bar" would lead you to believe.
Alberto remembered you today (Barbone). He recalled where you sat and what you ordered. He's young yet; we'll see if he can do that when he's our age.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | September 30, 2007 at 06:25 PM
Lord have mercy, that was two years ago. (I think. You know what memory is.)
Posted by: Fredric Koeppel | October 01, 2007 at 10:31 AM
The lights are down because in the dark people looks better...that's why so many dates at Il Posto Accanto end up with success :) at least until the sun goes up again ahahahahaha.
Ciao Vecio
Posted by: gabrio | October 01, 2007 at 10:55 AM
You kids today have no respect.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | October 01, 2007 at 12:41 PM
the grain upon which the bistecca ai ferri rests is farroto. glad you enjoyed it.
matt
Posted by: Gabrio Tosti | October 04, 2007 at 05:20 PM
Thanks, Matt. I saw bistecca on the menu and sort of ignored the rest. Mmm-mm.
Do many people order that Maculan Dindarello?
Posted by: Terry Hughes | October 04, 2007 at 05:29 PM