Sangiovese Seminar at Del Posto, October 23

Exhausted as I was from the events of the past two weeks -- there's nothing like the death watch of a loved one to wear you down, not to mention the added drain of sitting shivah and making hours of small talk and rehashing the pitiful last days of the deceased --

I say, tired as I was, I couldn't stay away from a long-planned seminar and tasting at the bruited Del Posto, newest star in the Batali firmament. Entitled the "Ruffino Sangiovese Seminar", it featured Sangiovese-based wines from several of the firm's Tuscan estates, namely Santedame, Lodola Nuova and Greppoli Mazzi, plus two of their American properties, Columbia Winery's Red Willow Vineyard (Washington State) and the Miner Gibson Ranch Sangiovese (Mendocino).  The interactions of terroir and clonal differences yielded an interesting if not always pleasing range of aromas and tastes.

Greppone Mazzi estate vineyards

Pleasant as this was, I found two other parts of the program far more engrossing and informative.

Since a great deal of the seminar dealt with clonal variations of this difficult grape, the clonal tasting was fascinating, and a 1977-2003 vertical of the Ruffino Riserva Ducale Oro, the top-line Chianti Classico, was a concise textbook of the changing clonal/varietal mix -- and more, of course -- in Ruffino's winemaking over the years.

Before I continue with this post -- the first of two or more about this event -- I must descend from my usual Olympian perch (IRONY ALERT) and confess that Ruffino wines haven't generally thrilled me.  Sort of boring, not very distinctive, too obviously engineered in latter years to cater to stereotypically American tastes.  I find the newly-released 2004 wines to have a clearer identity and a more balanced flavor profile, with more acidity and less sweetish roundness. 

This course correction portends excellent things to come, and I will not give too much away by saying that the hiring of a Florence-born consulting oenologist in 2001 has already effected huge improvements in the Ruffino lineup.  (The 2004's are his first Ruffino release.)  His name is Carlo Ferrini, and you will be reading more about this man in future posts, beginning with the very next but one.

Don Carlo

By the way, how was the grub at Del Posto?  All right. I guess the exalted prices are to pay for the polished teak and marble inlay floors.

Sangiovese, un'uva spaccacuore - a grape that will break your heart

The speakers at the seminar -- Dr. Maurizio Bogoni, Director of Ruffino Estates; Stefano Poni of Universita' Cattolica del Sacro Cuore, Piacenza, and Carlo Ferrini -- emphasized the difficulty of growing the Sangiovese grape, incidentally explaining why so few foreign examples of SG wines are satisfactory.  In general, SG is very finicky about light, drainage, soil, altitude, etc. -- not as much so as Pinot Noir, perhaps, but difficult nevertheless.  The local adaptations of SG in the various zones of Tuscany have, over the centuries, resulted in clones which have the capability of producing fine wines under highly specific conditions.  For a number of reasons, from overcropping to ignorance of the clones' qualities to promiscuous viticulture, many SG-based wines were excessively variable in character and quality within the same zone and even the same property.

Clones in the glass

We tasted barrel samples of five SG clones, all from the 2005 vintage. Most enlightening and enjoyable.

1. SG Clone R24

Alc. 13.86%

Acidity 5.4 g/L

pH 3.46

Notes: From Emilia-Romagna.  Highly spiced phenolics, lots of fruit, decent tannins.  Used for wines to be drunk young -- but with structure.  Pleasantly yeasty, intensely fruttato, nice for simple everyday use, economical. 

2. SG Clone VCR23

Alc. 14.71%

Acidity 5.6 g/L

pH 3.44

Notes:  Higher quality.  Spicy, hints of cinnamon, black pepper, even licorice.  Used for blending with long-ageing wines if "goal is to retain SG characteristics."  Faint nose but fruity, pleasant.

3. SG Clone VCR4

Alc. 14.35%

Acidity 5.2 g/L

pH 3.49

Notes:  Higher quality. Perfumed, spicy, high fruit scents.  Average color intensity.  "Best adapted for medium ageing wines with good structure." 

4. SG Clone VCR6

Alc. 14.74%

Acidity 4.9 g/L

pH 3.54

Notes:  Highest quality.  Representative of Brunello style, spicy with strong floral and fruits scents (plum, morello), deep color, high in phenols.  Used for long-ageing wines.  Deep, rich, already complex in the glass, true to its type.

5. SG Clone VCR105

Alc. 13.81%

Acidity 4.9 g/L

pH 3.54

Notes:  For Morellino di Scansano, soft, fruity, yet with weight and depth in its future.  Delicious, even sensuous, which makes it characteristically distinct from most SGs.  True to Morellino type.

Things to do.  Must run.  More later.

Comments

[Fredric Koeppel]

I'll look forward to the rest of your comments. I agree about Ruffino; the wines have seemd too polished, too corporate. I'm glad to hear that it will (or may) be other wise with the new winemaker.

[Terry Hughes]

If early indications of the just-released 2004 vintage are borne out, I think we will see a "grande balzo in avanti," as I told Ferrini -- a great leap forward.

[beatrice]

yeah the old man (IWG) was talking about them lately....sez they have a birdnest on the ground, whatever that iz supphozed to mean

[Terry Hughes]

what DOES that mean, old sage?

[Alfonso]

well...

That CF is on board is good news.

but they have a franchise that is huge and
have not really developed it in the manner that they can. I'm not talking about selling cases as much as showing leadership for Chianti and Sangiovese, if that makes any sense. They have the floor, so to speak, to speak up for the further evolution of the wines and the the region.

FK-- dont get any wild ideas about Beatrice...

[Terry Hughes]

1. You'd better reign in that BR, Satan is a lady.

2. I think you make an excellent point about Ruffino, and though the hiring of Carlo Ferrini was a wonderful stroke, the lineup IS huge and the challenges of turning around that gigantic vessel are daunting. We'll see.