Here in the US capital of wine, there is a malaise. You go to this or that restaurant and see so many of the same wineries, same grapes, same tiny array of vintages. (I think it's clear that I can't and don't frequent the temples of oenogastronomy, where there will nevertheless be a predictable glut of insanely priced Barolos, Supertuscans and Grands Crus.)
Despite the riches of the wine world being parked at our door, and available in the better wine shops, too many restaurant people are playing it safe. It's all the about the food at too many eateries. Which is too bad because isn't the wine supposed to enhance and glorify the food? Too much about artistic displays of each course, too little about the way the food tastes and feels, especially when combined with wine.
I hear there's a trend, maybe more a trendlet, among young sommeliers and wine buyers to veer away from the superbig reds, for reasons of both cost and taste, to livelier wines, often from unheralded areas. Wines that are more food-friendly with higher acidity and less toasty sugariness. We live in hope.
What do you think? How does the current restaurant wine situation strike you, whether you live in the City or Out There?
Hi
I was shocked at the variety of wines on offer in the Italian restaurants of New York. I'm talking about $100+ per head restaurants too, very safe wine lists.
I was thankful to get back to Italy in that respect. Of course living in Rome I have a wonderful array of italian wines waiting for me, and the Roman restaurants are less impressed with the big names and tend to let their own taste buds do the talking... or the stocking. Lasts night meal was around the corner with a bottle of Primitivo I hadnt heard of and was wonderful.
Forget New York, move to Rome.
Posted by: Sarah Newton | December 18, 2007 at 09:37 AM
Welcome back! Wine lists tend to be either vapid and marked up 400% or somewhat interesting and marked up 400%. By the way, there is no there out there.
Posted by: Marco | December 18, 2007 at 02:25 PM
The situation is, I take it, nearly hopeless?
Thank you, it's good to be back for normal meals instead of banquets that would have gladdened the heart of Trimalchio.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | December 18, 2007 at 04:27 PM
Most restaurants mark up wine so outrageously that they shoot themselves in the foot. If the chef sat down with the wine guy more and the markups were more reasonable, they would have many more happy diners that consumed more wine with their presumably well prepared foods.
Posted by: Marco | December 18, 2007 at 09:19 PM
We're always looking for something new right? The new red wines are the indie rock of red wine. The underdog has always been Italy in wine production. What's hipper/more American minded than supporting the underdog? Supporting the underdog organizations that exist in the underdog nation. I love it.
The food thing--- it's hard to find a balance of both. I just want really simple rustic flavors when it comes to that. I want a cohesive dish, not all these 14 dollar small plates.
Posted by: Lisa Qiu | December 19, 2007 at 09:50 AM
Lisa, nice to have you back, commenting and with so much insight for one so young...really, all joking aside, I think this is a terrific comment.
Cheers.
Posted by: Terry Hughes | December 19, 2007 at 10:09 AM
i'm at a point where i just bring what i want to drink and pay the corkage. it's still a better deal than paying markup for what is usually dull wine.
Posted by: Brooklynguy | January 07, 2008 at 03:05 PM
You got that right, with a few excellent exceptions.
Coming to the Crunk Coronation on Weds. eve?
Posted by: Terry Hughes | January 07, 2008 at 03:13 PM
i can't, i'm sorry to say. childcare duties preclude it. another time though with certainty.
Posted by: Brooklynguy | January 08, 2008 at 08:41 PM