I appreciate the nominations you left for "most promising dry white Italian wines". I was a little surprised, too. Vermentino? Really, all you good people? Muller-Thurgau? It can be very good -- but that good? (Sorry, Egle! I know it's your favorite.)
For some time now I've been oscillating between the native whites of Campania (the holy trinity of Fiano, Falanghina and Greco di Tufo) and the "Great Northeast," as they say in Philadelphia.
The Northeast encompasses a pretty good range of grapes and terroirs. To me the best of these regions are Friuli and Alto Adige. I'm with Alex, who is from Alto Adige, on the worthiness of Kerner or even Terlaner, for example, although I think Gewurztraminer is too unsubtle to make it "the great" Italian dry white wine.
Tocai Friulano -- now plain old Friulano -- is a real contender, whether under that name or Sauvignonasse (related to what other grape, thinkest thou...?); but its relatively low acidity level makes blending a better way of cozening the best out of it. Like with Verduzzo, which is alive in the mouth. And Ribolla Gialla, rather more subdued than Verduzzo but loaded with racy charm all the same.
I love Northeastern (Alto-Atesine) Pinot Bianco, but its crystalline acidity and purity seem more characteristics of the regional terroir than any grand expression of the grape itself.
David, I have to tell you: I don't have a lot of respect for Trebbiano. Sorry. Fine as a blending partner, but its character is di Serie B. Even Emidio Pepe doesn't convince me. (My opinion only.)
I like Pecorino and a couple of other central whites, but the white wine situation brightens only when you hit Campania. Falanghina -- delicious. Fiano -- subtle, perhaps too subtle for my boisterous taste, but capable of great things in the right hands, as Luca has suggested. We're still waiting for that revelation. And color me a barbarian, but I'm crazy about Greco di Tufo, which is tangy and wild and yet amazingly versatile and drinkable. It may not be subtle or structured enough to age well, but is that truly the main criterion for a
"great" wine?
My current issue with a lot of the Campanian wines we're getting in the States these days: they taste and feel a little sweetened. They lack precision. They aren't that distinguishable, in some extreme cases, from...Pinot Grigio. Overcropping and simple greed are taking their toll. This is wrong. Stupid, too.
I invite further comments.
My roommates last night bought a bottle of white yellowtail....
I've BEEN POISONED
Posted by: Lisa Qiu | March 08, 2008 at 03:03 PM
They must be jealous of your fame and are trying to do you in.
Posted by: TH | March 08, 2008 at 03:22 PM
No, I know about Trebb- haven't even bothered to try the varietal 'Ugni Blanc' around. Happy we agree on Campanian whites & epecially el funky Greco!
Posted by: David J | March 09, 2008 at 05:26 PM
I like Terredora di Paolo (aka Mastroberardino with original vineyards, not the family name) Fiano di Avelino. I like it a lot more after 1-2 years bottle age. Also had a great Verdicchio di Matelica recently, Collestefano. Cantina di Gallura's single vineyard Vermentino was also quite good. All of those under $18. None of them hold a candle to my most favorite Italian white: 2002 Radikon Ribolla.
Posted by: Joe M. | March 20, 2008 at 04:07 PM
I have heard of Tocai...but never tasted...
Posted by: KrJoy | March 19, 2009 at 09:48 AM