I'm in Grosseto now after a whirlwind 24 hours in the Montecucco zone of southern Tuscany. I wrote about this emerging wine area in December (follow this link). I tasted the producers' wines again and have some general thoughts about the strikingly distinct terroir of Montecucco vs. the better-known denominations of Tuscany.
First of all, these wines tend to be leaner than the well-publicized ones north of here in Chianti and in neighboring Montalcino. The climate is very much harsher, the altitude higher, the sugars somewhat reduced. Furthermore, the enologi of Schiaccionaia (Luca D'Attoma) and Piandibugnano (Paolo Trappolini) are leading both wineries in a similar direction, where the grapes and the land are allowed to express themselves without being smothered in oak or pumped up with excessive sugars and alcohol.
Secondly, there is a willingness to experiment with different grapes. Aside from Sangiovese (which sometimes has difficulty reaching maturation here), producers have Aleatico, Syrah, Viognier, Vermentino and even Pinot Noir in their vineyards. There are many more varieties represented. While I'm all for using native grapes whenever feasible, I love a crisply dry, profumato Viognier when I find it -- especially in Tuscany, which is so short of interesting white wines.
No vines here. On the flank of Monte Amiata
Side note: much of the zone is too cold for either olives or grapes, so in effect this is a northern European wine area. This and the diverse soils make for highly interesting and drinkable wines. The Consorzio di Montecucco has a stand at Vinitaly, and it's worth stopping by to chat with the producers and try some of their best.
Also consider...
A couple of other tidbits of note:
Right now there are something like 20 wine producers in Montecucco. All of them are rather small, some of them tiny. The wines are, by default, artisanal wines that are watched over obsessively at every stage of development, from first budding in spring to the final bottling. As a result, the quantities are small and the prices a little higher than in some other wine-producing areas. Yet far less expensive than in places like Montalcino, where an ordinary Rosso will cost you the same amount as a top-level cru from a Montecucco winery.
Because Montecucco isn't steeped in, or weighed down by a long, continuous viticultural tradition, there is a ready willingness to try new methods to make good wine and make that wine through "sustainable" practices. Producers like Marcella Turziani of Schiaccionaia emphasize the need to preserve the cleanness and integrity of the zone's natural environment. Her family's farm grows various fruits and vegetables in addition to grapes. It is certified biologico because, apart from the increasing market for foods produced with as few chemicals as possible, she does not want to compromise the ambiente of her area. "This is an unspoiled corner of Tuscany. It's special. We must maintain it for the future."
I'm going to present my wines in a restaurant the 26th of March along with La Schiaccionaia that I asked to join, also because we share the same enologoist now, but above all because I believe a lot in the Montecucco area. Funny enough, one of Pian di Bugnano winery's share holder is one of my main sales reps. It is a small world, isn't it?
Posted by: gianpaolo | March 18, 2008 at 05:30 PM
It is indeed, Gianpaolo.
I call Giorgio Il Pirata. It fits, no?
Schiaccionaia loves Luca D'Attoma. I think he has helped them finetune their wines a lot, plus he has a good strategic sense of the global market. Worth its weight in gold.
BTW, Gabrio in NYC says your wines sell well with him.
Posted by: Terence Dominic | March 18, 2008 at 05:35 PM
Giorgio Bucelli, one of the share holders of Pian di Bugnano, claims that so far he has probably eaten 3-4whole Chianina cows in total.
That explains a lot about the man character.
He's a great guy and a great sales rep too.
Good for Gabrio and good for me!
Enjoy the Maremma Terry.
Posted by: gianpaolo | March 19, 2008 at 04:32 AM
Giorgio is indeed a 'Grande' in every sense of the word.
Posted by: TH | March 19, 2008 at 10:48 AM
Nice and very interesting post, TH. My radars are now pointed to Montecucco at next Vinitaly. I'll follow your suggestion to spend some time in their booth at the wine show in Verona. Ciao!
Posted by: Giampiero alias Aristide | March 23, 2008 at 05:04 PM
Ottimo, GP. Ci vedremo li'. E altrove/ovunque come sempre...
Posted by: TH | March 23, 2008 at 06:26 PM
Somewhat off topic, but do you by chance know of any escorted tours or wine tours in that area? I'm planning a vacation there soon and while I know plenty about wine I know very little about travel through Italy. :- ) Anyway, love your posts as always. Thanks.
Posted by: Travel Guy | March 30, 2008 at 05:52 PM
Thanks very much, TG. There are some tour companies that specialize in that sort of thing, for example Sunny Tuscany, which is based in Florence. The tours are a bit costly but can be finely tuned to individual tastes.
There are also a lot of lovely "Country houses" (aka Agriturismi, an awful name that calls to mind a work farm in a socialist rogue state) in that area. Search on Susanna Crociani and Montalcino -- she may be able to help you.
That's off the top of my head. If I've omitted anyone that I know and should have listed here, let me know about it!
Posted by: TH | March 31, 2008 at 04:51 PM