My 15 seconds of fame in fact. Luciano Pignataro of Il Mattino contacted me before I left New York, asking if I would like to be interviewed in his paper, the major daily of the southern mainland (in Naples). I said yes, and the exciting results and my authoritative comments on vino italiano are at this location.
I value Luciano'a attention because he really is the most knowledgeable and probably the most discerning writer on southern Italian wine and food today. His web site is an awesome resource, some of it in English.
Thanks to a very heavy schedule introducing Jeff to a number of small but excellent producers (those unknown gems I'm so fond of), I haven't had any time to hang with a large number of both American and Italian friends. How much "hanging" there might be is debatable anyway, since everyone is wildly busy.
Last night we had dinner with a young (very young) producer of Valpolicella named Tommaso Bianchi, and his entire family and that essential person, his enologo. These young guys are doing some fantastic things, and their base Val is to me a perfect expression of that wine: loaded with cherries, light, well-balanced and clean clean clean. The name of the winery is Dall'Abaco Federgoni, which has a long and interesting history as an estate if not a winery, which in its current incarnation is not very old. However, most of the vines producing today are at least 20 years old. I'll save the full story till much later.
I must add, however, that Tommaso's parents and brother are charming, smart and warmly welcoming. Ken signaled to me that it was getting late (after an early and tiring day). "No it's not," I said. "Yes it is," he said. "It's one o'clock." We got back to the B&B near two and asleep around three. And up at seven.
The cliche time flies when you're having fun was never more appropriate. By the way, Tommaso's lovely mother, Silvia, is a "solar" personality as they say here, chic and lovely, not to mention a great cook. I was fascinated to learn more about the history of the estate, back to Roman times at least, and to hear some of the homey details of Silvia's family, as if the mid 19th century were a couple of years ago. (OK, I was smitten.)
I must also add that Massimo, the enologo, is a young man who favors a fairly restrained style of Amarone and has a wonderful touch with the basic Valpolicella. He's really at the start of his career, and I fervently hope that he and Tommaso maintain a long partnership.
I got to the fair today very late -- at 2:30 -- because we spent a wonderful morning with Lucia Raimondi of Villa Monteleone, whose Valpolicellas are of a more traditional, austere style than Tommaso Bianchi's. Her ripasso, named San Vito, is her best wine according to three visiting Americans. It's also her personal favorite. I've written about it before. I should say more about Villa Monteleone and its storia sentimentale, which is quite moving and romantic. The story illustrates the importance the wine holds for Lucia and her family, and explains her commitment to holding high standards.
Tomorrow will be our last day here in Verona. We want to explore the wines of Sardinia and then head for Villa Favorita and VinNatur in the afternoon.
We head for the Venice airport hotel (what a glamorous destination!) on Monday and to New York on Tuesday morning. Oh grand! More jetlag!
BTW, sorry for no pix. I can't download them on the VI computers. Plus, you know, I've been schlepping the camera around but have yet to take one picture. Jeff's been a far far better Vinitaly citizen than I.
0
I am very happy that you like my friends Sandro, Silvia, Pietro, Tommaso and his wine Valpolicella Superiore Dall'Abaco Fedrigoni.
I hope to see you soon.
g.trisciuzzi
Posted by: borntowine | April 11, 2008 at 03:31 AM