A nice article entitled "In Praise of Italy's Distinctive Whites" in Jancis Robinson's "Free for All" section today, in which she sums up succinctly the charms of (mostly northern) Italian white wines. Here are two of the set-up paragraphs:
While
it’s true that Italy makes far more red than white, the dramatically
improved whites of the country that so often produces more wine than
any other are not to be ignored – especially when they can offer so
many intriguing flavours well off the beaten track.
Italy
is recovering from a dubious love affair with oaky Chardonnay and is
now celebrating its differences - indigenous grape varieties such as
Arneis, Falanghina, Fiano, Friulano, Greco, Grechetto, Malvasia,
Ribolla Gialla, Verdicchio, Vermentino – as well as showing admirable
competence in making fruity, refreshing, specifically regional examples
of the well-known international varietals, and an increasing proportion
of blends.
I do think she needs to spend more time in the Mezzogiorno. I'd be happy to introduce her to my pals in Campania.
I really think that most of the very important wine writers should start to more around Italy and re-descover the territory, rather than spending time with big names that were discovered by them years ago. Things have changed in the last decades and not many people know that.
Posted by: gianpaolo | May 17, 2008 at 01:55 PM
We think you spend enough time in the Mezzogiorno for the both of ya. Maybe you should get a gig as her Campania correspondent.
Try to not get whiplash from the feather pillows in your suite in Napoli
Posted by: Dawn Curling-iron-e | May 17, 2008 at 02:00 PM
D'accordo, GP. Thngs seem to have changed a lot in the past few years, and very few know or appreciate the speed and quality of the change.
Dawn, I love your suggestion. I'll write her straightaway.
Posted by: Terenzio | May 17, 2008 at 02:09 PM
Glad she mentioned Kerner, love that stuff!
Posted by: michele colline | May 18, 2008 at 08:54 AM
I see, there is not garganega between indigenous grapes. So, not Soave for Jancis & you! Not Trebbiano di Lugana (Lugana wine), too..
Now I understand why my friends in Soave are preoccupied. They produce 60 milion of bottles of Soave every year, and nobody care of it...!
:-((
Lizzy
Posted by: Lizzy | May 19, 2008 at 02:33 AM
at least there was campania. but no cattarato? inzolia? not even verdicchio?
whatever.
Posted by: tracie b | May 27, 2008 at 08:13 AM
Sehr gute Seite. Ich habe es zu den Favoriten.
Posted by: mietwagen | March 12, 2009 at 02:30 PM