Quickie: Soave Surprise

At the suggestion of Verona wine journalist and blogger Elisabetta Tosi we went to a small family winery at Monteforte d'Alpone in the Soave DOCG zone last week.  Called I Stefanini, the winery is run by young Francesco Tessari (winemaker) and his father Valentino (vineyard manager), who work 20 hectares in two plots of land.  The family, starting with Valentino's father, have been working this land since buying it in the 1950s, when they also rehabbed the three-hundred year old house as a summer place; it is now their full-time residence.  The volcanic soil of the hill directly behind the house, roughly a quarter of their land, is the source of two of the family's wines, including its DOCG cru.

None of the Tessaris' three wines see any oak, but they do undergo at least partial malolactic fermentation.  While rich and suave in the mouth, full of delicate spice and fruit notes, the wines have good levels of acidity and great minerality, which makes them far more interesting and drinkable than the too-soft, characterless Soaves most of us have drunk for years.  In fact, I was bowled over by the intensity and clear expression of these 100% Garganega wines, from the base Il Sèlese Soave DOC (2007) to the well-structured and very long Monte di Fice Superiore Classico DOCG (2006). In the Monte di Fice especially there was a luscious aroma and taste of fresh Cling peaches, some citrus notes at the end.  Multifaceted.

By the way, the Monte di Fice is produced from the grapes at the top of the hill.  Lower down on the same hill is the source of another cru, Monte de Toni Classico DOC (2006).  A little less structured than the costlier (but still amazingly low-priced) Monte di Fice, Monte de Toni may actually be a little more complex.  There are very clear, tarry, volcanic notes at the finish, which provide a surprising counterpoint to the over-taste of peaches and honeysuckle. There is a little residual sugar on the finish, which makes this a highly pleasing aperitif as well as a fine accompaniment to somewhat rich salads and seafood dishes, as well as fowl and pork.

Monte di Fice.  About 150 metres above sea level, southern exposure

I Stefanini makes stunningly good whites for everyday consumption, and exceptional quality for the money.  I am told that I Stefanini wines will be imported to the New York metro area beginning this September.

Happiness Quotient:

Il Sèlese  -                12.5 x 4 glasses = 50

Monte de Toni   -    13 x 6 glasses = 78

Monte di Fice -        13 x 5 glasses = 65

Why the name "I Stefanini"?  There have always been so many Tessari ("Weavers") in the area that different families became distinguished by nicknames, in this case one based on an ancestor whose name was Stefano. 

Valentino in front of house and tasting room (also the family dining room).  The wide flat area in front was once used as a drying platform for crops, locally called a sèlese.

Not in picture: the warm-hearted wife of Valentino and mother of Francesco, Stefania.

Below: View from the sèlese

Comments

[Jeff]

That's good news as I have recently been woken up as to how good quality Soave can actually be. I guess I fall into the camp of people who have been turned off by cheap, mass produced versions from Bolla and the like.

[tracie b]

last year at the centovini tasting (a meregalli event in napoli) i had some DElicious soave. though i can't remember the producer, the wine smelled like a sunny bowl of ripe agrumi with a little minerality sprinkled in. the recioto was nice too!

YOU sir, are making it hard for me to be in texas right now.

[th]

Repatriate's remorse, Tracie?

Here's the up side. You get to imbibe Alfonso's wit and wisdom EVERY. SINGLE. DAY.

[tracie b]

not remorse...more like ambivalence.

se fossi cosi' fortunata!

:)

[th]

fortunata per che cosa?

[lieben]

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