Two years ago I took off for a month in Italy. I knew it was going to be the dream of a lifetime come true. I had no idea that it was going to change the course of my life.
The idea was that we were going to house-sit for an American couple who had to return to the US. We were going to look after a couple of cats and stay in the center of a little village in Abruzzo. That was the idea. The reality was far less than pleasant or reasonable.
First of all, there were five cats. Five. In the intense heat of that summer the house radiated the smell of cat pee -- far worse than the worst New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc you could ever imagine -- from 10 feet away.
Secondly, the couple thoughtfully padlocked their bedroom so no one could use it or the only TV, DVD player, etc., in the house.
Then there was the neighbor who spied on us every day to make sure we didn't, I don't know, sponsor orgies or (worse) open the joint up as a B&B.
We lasted about 10 days.
Fortunately, I phoned a few people I had met via the Internet or at tastings in New York, and we were off to Siena, Verona and Rome. We visited many wineries, met a lot of winemakers and made good friends. And yes, the trip did change my life. Before, I was a wretch who taught in the public schools of New York -- out of desperation after 25 years in advertising. After, I was a wretch who suffered a breakdown because teaching in the public schools of New York was completely antithetical to everything I loved, needed and wanted. For what I loved, needed and wanted was a life in wine. Specifically, Italian wine. My love for Italy has been a constant in a wildly careering life since I was 14 years old.
And so here I am, tasting a few Campanian wines with a critical eye and palate as I sit on a balcony overlooking the Bay of Naples and a tranquil Vesuvius, as I try to decide whether or not to bring the wines to the United States. I've put everything I have into this new initiative (and more) and I'm probably the happiest I've ever been in a life of many extremes, of both misery and joy and deprivation and modest affluence.
Eccomi, rinato di nuovo, alleluja.
Saluti, carissimi.
See the photos and captions on the continuation page for a few scenes and faces of the month that tore my life apart. And of course you can trace my adventures/discoveries in the mondosapore posts from July 25 to August 25, 2006.
And let me tell you this too -- I'm grateful for the day that Ken demanded we leave that smelly-cat house in Abruzzo or none of this would have happened.
Part of the Roman aqueduct in Sulmona. It's a charming old city, Ovid's hometown
San Gimignano. A major tourist trap but beautiful just the same. Siena was another story -- utterly magnificent, big enough to transcend the tourist hordes and remain itself. 
One of the highlights: Tasting at Fattoria Le Fonti, near Poggibonsi, still one of my favorite Chiantis. The olive oil was sensational too.
Two gentlemen of Verona, Stefano Frega and the superblogger Giampiero Nadali of Aristide. Meeting GPN was probably the most decisive factor in giving me a new vision for my life. And through him I met some of the dearest people I've ever met--Laura, Alex, Micaela, Maria and Laura. Just to name a few.
NB: They were about to eat horsemeat. Quite the introduction to the ways of Verona.
Then of course there's Elisabetta Tosi. I met her thanks to Giampiero and thank her for the many wonderful winemakers she has introduced me to, including Daniele Accordini and Francesco Tessari.
The lady knows everybody, it seems. Grazie, Lizzy.
Yours truly with a motley crew at the wild & crazy Adriano Liloni's "Trattoria Pegaso" in the hills above Lake Garda. What a great evening. And morning. It lasted 6 hours and seemed like 10 minutes. I had to be dragged out of there.
Grazie, Giampi. E grazie, Italia. E non trascuriamo Ken che ha consentito a fare questo viaggio con me. Grazie anche a te.
What a story! The cats alone--shudder. I met Giampiero at the Inertia symposium this month, and he is indeed a gentleman as well as a blogger. And selfishly, I'm glad that someone with your passion is going to bring Italian wine into the darker corner of the US, like California where the selection by and large sucks. Don't let the New Yorkers get all of it, ok?
Posted by: Dr. Debs | July 25, 2008 at 03:38 PM
Debs, we wouldn't dream of it. We will be looking for a CA distributor sooooon. Thanks for the good word.
Posted by: Strappo | July 25, 2008 at 04:14 PM
...& were they eating il cavallo as raw, air-cured Bresaola? Tried it in a Venetian-owned resto in Barcino & am salivating for it right now-- just a few fetas over some rucula or radicchetta, with aged Balsamico offsetting the bitter greens & particularly mineral/metallic horseflesh...ahhh Dio Dio mio!
Posted by: David J | July 25, 2008 at 05:16 PM
1. Yuk.
2. They eat the stuff in stewy things in Verona, mostly.
3. When the hell did you get back to PR????
4. Tell me all about it.
Abbraccio.
Posted by: Strappo | July 25, 2008 at 05:18 PM
Good anniversary, my dear friend! You know, you deserve and you're the proud owner of the title of "Italian Wine Ambassador" in that "dark corner" of the wine world (hello Deb! Good to see you there and here!).
You did and you do (with Ken) a great job, freeing your life and entertaining us. Keep continuing that way! Cheers! Abbracci!
Posted by: Giampiero alias Aristide | July 25, 2008 at 10:49 PM
WOW! Thanks, old boy! Wonderful post, and photo.
Sei dei nostri, Terry. Italy - and specially Valpolicella - is your home, now! La tua casa, tua e di Ken.
Tornate presto, vi aspettiamo!
Cheers from Rhodos Island (Greece)!
Iassas!
Posted by: Lizzy | July 26, 2008 at 02:43 AM
Terry/Terence/Domenico/Strappo,
is it really just two years since we met in old town Verona?
The friendship that has developped makes me feel that I know you and Ken since ages...
Un abbraccio !!!
alex
Posted by: alex | July 26, 2008 at 05:13 AM
Incredible that it has been just two years, Alex!
Thank you all for your friendship and warmest of welcomes. Siete anche dei "nostri" (di me e Ken). Abbracci!
Posted by: Strappo | July 26, 2008 at 12:10 PM
aw.. we love you terry, glad that you are so happy in your life. how was france?
Posted by: dana and paolo | July 26, 2008 at 02:53 PM
awww yourselves...and france was so FRENCH. actually, it was great, except osrta paris where the people acted like neapolitans. don't ask.
Posted by: Strappo | July 26, 2008 at 04:10 PM
Terry, in my addled state I focused on the food thing & was uncouth in not clutching you in a virtual hug...th way you extend friendship so easily & generously, as with other comments, I can't believe we only met last Summer over that dinner at Barbone!!
MW, I wanted to post a little update on my Prodigal Son's uncelebrated return blues, with musical soundtrack, but I can't upload an MP3 directly to Blogspot-- oh wise mentor, how & where could I have a couple wry tunes by a certain Kevin Johansen hosted?? Thank you, un pegajoso abrazo tropical...
Posted by: David J | July 26, 2008 at 05:17 PM
only two years... i remember you and Ken pre-liberation; how much happier you seem now. looking forward to tasting the bounty you're bringing from Italia.
Posted by: fredric koeppel | July 27, 2008 at 10:24 AM
First we gotta get them labels approved! Grrrr.
Yah, as opposed to then, I feel like I've got a good reason to get up every day.
Posted by: Strappo | July 27, 2008 at 10:29 AM