Wine styles of Campania: Prelude

This is a post that I've promised for some time, or, I should say, the sketch of a post.  I'll write the full, in-depth version of it after my next trip to Campania in late July.

What prompted the idea for this and the subsequent post was a conversation I had with Fortunato Sebastiano a couple of months ago.  As we discussed the different versions of Aglianico and Fiano that I had been tasting with him, he said there was a great and unremarked distinction between coastal and mountain wines in Campania -- so great a distinction, in fact, that the same variety, such as Aglianico, seemed like a completely different grape in the region's two main terroirs.

Almost 700 metres above sea level in Avellino hills.  Greco di Tufo DOCG.  Cool climate zone.

I said, "I don't think anyone in the States appreciates this."  I sure hadn't till then. I had noticed a clear, consistent difference in "organoleptic" characteristics between the coastal and mountain wines.

He said, "I don't think anyone in Italy understands it either."  Fortunato went on to say that it could be the basis of a new set of marketing strategies; right now, only the inland, high-elevation wines are given great critical attention.  Think of Aglianico di Taurasi DOCG and Greco di Tufo DOCG, to name but two.  They are wines of thrilling character, full of minerality and, in the case of the Aglianico, a powerful tannicity.  Fruit is somewhat subjugated to the tannins and acidity, especially in the reds, but the wines develop what I would call a classic vinosity after a couple of years.

Coastal Aglianico at Montevetrano. Gentler land, gentler wine.

Yet, as I myself had found, the coastal wines have great charm and drinkability, and are in no way to be dismissed as wines of a lesser terroir.  I think the wines that highlighted the distinction and raised my estimation of the coastal wines were the Aglianico and Fiano of Terra di Vento, a winery in the Salerno coastal zone.  Their appellation is not a prized one -- IGT Colli di Salerno -- and I know that Salernian wines don't fly off the shelves in the United States.  But the winery's 100% Aglianico is delicious in its fruit, with good acidity, and it has softer tannins than

you find in a Taurasi.  A 2006 from this area is a lot more drinkable at this time than a mountain Aglianico from the same vintage (if the latter has actually been released).  This coastal edition by Terra di Vento costs a lot less than the upland one, too -- roughly half.

Here's a summary of the differences between coastal and mountain wines of the same grape:

Coastal

More fruit, less tannin, ready to drink sooner, more "sensuous"

Mountain

More earthiness and minerality, stronger tannins, harder edge, require more ageing, more "austere"

Again, I emphasize that I think both are equally valid.  There is no issue here of "better" or "worse," merely one of "what are you looking for?" 

I tasted some other Aglianicos, Fianos and Grecos from Campania's various wine zones.  I will retaste them, this time with more consciousness of the differing terroirs.  Six to eight producers' wines will be in the mix.  You'll read it here in early August.  Till then, please comment and add your experiences about these typologies.  I'd be interested in your take on the coastal/mountain dichotomy.

Comments

[Fredric Koeppel]

"Organoleptic" .... a person who has a seizure when confronted by a Wulitzer.

[strappo]

Good one. You're in a rum mood today, old boy.

[tracie b]

there's also the cilento zone, which would be more coastal--they make some very interesting fiano down there (de conciliis is one) as well as aglianico. crazy wines!

the inland fiano, to me, shows more hazelnut and piney-herby character, with a little less agrumi, never losing the minerality though.

i concur with the taurasi.

then there's the campi flegrei doc (aglianico, piedirosso, falanghina), which you heartily poo-pooed about a month ago.

whatever. those aglianicos are kind of raspy peppery and the falanghinas are all citrus and flowers.

hhhaaaaaah. mi manchano! ch'aggia fa'?

[David McDuff]

Ah, the elusive tannicity. Enlightening post, T. Seems there's a close parallel to be drawn to valley floor vs. mountain Cabernet Sauvignon in the Napa Valley, at least when the wine's are allowed to show their place.

[terence]

@ tracie -- far be it from me to poo poo. Though I have been called caca occasionally.

As to Campi Flegrei, I don't dislike the wines, I just find the ones from other zones more interesting.

@ David -- I was thinking except aren't the coastal wines of Cali more akin to the mountain wines of Campania -- from cooler places, more acidity and so on? Sort of reversed.

[tracie b]

they may not be the most complex of the bunch, but they shouldn't be left out of the comparison. campi flegrei has it's own little special terroir-cino, non credi?

[Susannah Gold]

Thanks for the interesting read. Hope you got to taste Silvia Imperato's wines in Montevetrano. She's a real star. Marisa Cuomo is another from Campania that I really admire. I liked this long informative piece. Please continue.
Grazie.

[Susannah Gold]

Thanks for the interesting read. Hope you got to taste Silvia Imperato's wines in Montevetrano. She's a real star. Marisa Cuomo is another from Campania that I really admire. I liked this long informative piece. Please continue.
Grazie.

[Terry Hughes]

@ Susannah - grazie! More later.

@ tracie - Fortunato used to work for DeConciliis when first out of college. This young guy is devoted to Campania and he seems to know everybody. He knows Luciano Pignataro!

[Marco]

Terry,
Recommendations for Taurasi's under $30 if they exist?

[Strappo]

If you're talking about a Taurasi DOCG, I think you're out of luck. If it's a DOC from the Taurasi area, you'll find a bigger choice. More later, must run. Ciao, MR.