Yesterday was my day to ask you what grape varieties from Italy that you thought might become the Next Big Thing. I'm feeling crummy today -- the bronchitis and the antibiotic are duking it out inside my body -- so allow me to indulge in a little crankiness. So today's audience participation segment is called "Italy's Crappiest Varieties" (ICV).
Photo: How do you say "yucky" in Italian?
What, in your experience, are the worst grapes that Italy has on offer?
I think I should ask you to exclude Pinot Grigio, which is everyone's favorite grape to sneer at, whether you're in Italy or among American wine geeks. Though I have to tell you that there are even more characterless white wine grapes from the Bel Paese in my opinion.
Or perhaps, in a bow to my friend Gianpaolo Paglia, we are indeed talking about terroirs and their expression, which are often distorted and misrepresented by substandard vineyard and cellar practices, all of which serve to give a grape a bad name.
With that in mind, I will reveal my biases up front this time.
For me ICVs among whites are Verdicchio, and Trebbiano, any Trebbiano. Sure sure, there are some good examples of each (Bucci!). But, really, the exceptions are so exceptional that they prove my point.
Among the reds I have a very hard time with the pride-and-joy grapes of Puglia, Primitivo and especially Negroamaro and the truly disgusting Uva di Troia. How much of this is due to inherent quality defects and how much to viticulture and winemaking practices, I can't say.
Sorry, folks, that's what I think; please don't waste your digitation commenting what an uninformed stronzo I am. After all, it's just my opinion, not holy writ.
What are your nominations for ICV?
Your excellent comments and examples of awful Italian grapes have made my reconsider me selections. See continuation.
I don't think I'll change my choices for reds da schifo but I will change them for the white-wine grapes, thanks to suggestions from Franco and Tracie:
Cortese
Vernaccia
Trebbiano, especially but not only Treb d'Abruzzo
Oooh, I wouldn't dis Verdicchio, esp since I've had more than a few "exceptions" (you mention Bucci, I'd add Enzo Mecella, and I'm sure there are others; plus both Alberto Coffele and Graziano Prà claim that it's the Trebbiano di Soave, i.e. Verdicchio, that gives their older Soaves such lovely minerality)... and then of course with Trebbiano d'Abruzzo you've got Valentini and Marina Cvetic (may Gianni Masciarelli rest in peace). More to the point, doesn't even a single exception prove that it's not the variety itself, but (perhaps) the terroir and (more likely) the treatment at fault? I mean, people thought Barbera was crap until Giacomo Bologna gave it a spoonful of lovin' and showed the way... and at this point, we all know that Barbera can make fantastic wines.
Now suppose I were to nominate a couple of "vitigni insulsi"... would that simply be because I hadn't personally tasted a great example? or because some producer hadn't yet found the right terroir or the right metodo di produzione for this variety?
Posted by: Doug Cook | August 16, 2008 at 06:28 PM
OK, I'm guilty of making sweeping generalizations. What a surprise. Still, I personally do not find either Verdicchio and Trebbiano all that interesting no matter who makes them. Yes, some examples are worthy, etc., but I'll never go out of my way to taste them, or buy them.
I notice you didn't refer to the reds I singled out as ICVs. Does that mean you implicitly agree? And couldn't it be that there too it isn't the song but the singer who's to blame for all those sour notes?
And by the way, most Barbera still is crap IMO.
Posted by: Strappo | August 16, 2008 at 06:33 PM
Hadn't referred to the reds because I hadn't personally tasted an exception... but I haven't had a whole ton of Pugliese reds, so I didn't think I was informed enough to either agree or disagree. Maurizio Gily was saying he'd had some fine examples of Sussumaniello recently - have you had any? (I've not).
Yes, most Barbera is still crap. Most Cabernet Sauvignon is crap. Most Chardonnay is crap. Most of ANY variety is crap, if you look at the total quantity produced globally versus the small number of producers who have the terroir, the passion, the knowledge, and the economic wherewithal to do the right thing with the grape. The point is that it's these exceptions that prove the grape. With Barbera, there are plenty of "exceptions," and I love them!
Posted by: Doug Cook | August 16, 2008 at 07:03 PM
I'm inclined to agree with you re: Negroamaro, Strappo. But I must say that rare has been the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo that's done anything for me. I'll beg to differ regarding Verdicchio, as for every insipid one, of which there are plenty, there are also some good ones. But, as Doug C. said well, that's the case with just about anything. Now, as for Chardonnay in Italy I'd just assume see it all go away.
Posted by: David McDuff | August 16, 2008 at 08:59 PM
Hold the phone, Doug. I did say it was my "uninformed stronzo" type opinion.
McD, somehow I keep hoping Montepulciano d'Abruzzo from someone will amaze me...some are very good but -- is it the terroir, the winemaker, the inherent mediocrity of the grape? Whatever the reason, the jury's out on that one. Verdicchio is a lot better to me than Trebbiano. Which is a big zero, like the Italian Central Valley Colombard.
Posted by: Strappo | August 16, 2008 at 10:26 PM
Yucky = Schifo, pronounced skipho, better if said like shkiphoh.
Trebbiano, a part of Valentini (which is not a wine for everyone and every occasion) I've never tasted a trebbiano that I like (and I made wine with it, believe me). Beside Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is probably different, some say is actually Bombino (be careful how you pronounce this one, dont' forget to stress the first "b").
Posted by: gianpaolo | August 17, 2008 at 03:10 AM
how come yer bloggin' if it ain't holy writ? give it the power, man!
Posted by: fredric koeppel | August 17, 2008 at 08:25 AM
vernaccia di san gimignano...what's the big deal?
i can't say that there are any reds (autoctoni) that i haven't had a few good examples of.
Posted by: tracie b | August 17, 2008 at 09:22 AM
Terry, I don't agree with your choice of Verdicchio, that in my opinion is an excellent grape and express very good wines in Marche region. My "Italy's Crappiest Varieties are Cortese (the grape of Gavi wine) for white and Nero d'Avola (I don't think is a great variety!) for red grapes. Me too I'm not a great fan of Primitivo, but I'm a Negroamaro strong supporter
Posted by: Franco Ziliani | August 17, 2008 at 10:39 AM
Franco, those are excellent choices! Gavi is so...scialbo.
Tracie, Vernaccia is really blah, I agree.
Gianpaolo, schifo is the all-purpose word, isn't it?
Fredric, I'm not that arrogant. Really I'm not.
Seriously, it is so great to wake up (late) and see a slew of new comments. It's like waking up at Christmas and seeing what's in your stocking. (An Ed Grimley moment.)
Posted by: Strappo | August 17, 2008 at 10:43 AM
I've had wonderful Gavi and Vernaccia but, of course, there are many mediocre ones. I agree with Franco on nero d'Avola. I think it works well in blends(even if it is the majority)but am less impressed on its own. Everyone down there seems to think 100% is better so I'm thrilled to see an Italian say the opposite.
Posted by: michele colline | August 17, 2008 at 11:44 AM
Schifo is my best translation for yucky (don't tuch it, it's yucky - non toccarlo, fa schifo)
Just read today on Food & Wine mag of July (I think) "Vernaccia is an entire appellation that should be flushed down the toilet. Those wine just taste like paint thinner", said by Robert Bohr, Sommelier at Cru, New York.
I would worried if I was a Vernaccia producer...
here is the link to the full article:
http://www.mygazines.com/vendors/flipbook/flipBook.php?id=326&basecall=/&h=738&w=1366&type=magazine&read_articles=10096&title=FOOD%20&%20WINE%20-%20July%202008%20(CAN/USA)&can_tag=1&login=true&pageNum=163
Posted by: gianpaolo | August 17, 2008 at 03:12 PM
I read that one too. I have to say I agreed. You won't see me haunting those parts looking for a good candidate for importation.
Now did you read another scathing article about the Maremma?
(Joke, joke.)
Posted by: Strappo | August 17, 2008 at 03:16 PM
Maremma? What is that? I'm going to make whine in Sussex :-)
Posted by: gianpaolo | August 17, 2008 at 04:44 PM
"Trebbiano d'Abruzzo is probably different, some say is actually Bombino (be careful how you pronounce this one, dont' forget to stress the first "b")." -- gianpaolo
If that wine WERE named pompino, it still would suck!
Posted by: Strappo | August 17, 2008 at 05:44 PM