Somewhat redundant perhaps, but here's my attempt to set the record straight and quell the cavilling of my faithful blogfriends. I am listing my FAVORITE Italian grape varieties. And on the continuation page I'm going to list my 10 UNfavorites, prominent among which will be the ones I mentioned the other day.
My criterion is a simple one: Which grapes do I feel -- I, me, personally, individual defects and prejudices and habits all acknowledged -- are the ten best and worst of the native Italian varieties. These lists are in no particular order. But maybe there is an implied order in sequence in which they come to me.
TOP TEN
Aglianico
Greco di Tufo
Ribolla Gialla
Sangiovese
Fiano
Nebbiolo
Schioppettino
Freisa
Tintore
Marzemino
And the Ten of Shame and Ignominy...?
PTOOI!
Pinot Grigio
Vernaccia
Cortese
Moscato (pretty much the entire family)
Vermentino
Uva di Troia
Negroamaro
Grignolino
Primitivo
Trebbiano
OK, I can't leave it alone yet. Here are the Ten I'm On the Fence About -- can't make up my mind whether I think they've simply been abused, misused or misunderstood:
STUCK IN THE MIDDLE
Lagrein
Friulano
Pigato
Schiava
Gaglioppo
Nero d'Avola
Cannonau
Garganega
Refosco
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo
Feel free to chime in. Oh, I know you will.
Wow. Schioppettino. You do walk on the wild side.
I'd get off the fence about Pigato, Negroamaro, and Monte d'Abruzzo. Otherwise, I find myself in odd, awe-struck agreement.
Oh--except I'm a moscato lover. Not because it's so stupendous, but simply because I love to drink my desserts. :)
Posted by: Dr. Debs | August 19, 2008 at 05:46 PM
*I'm* awe-struck too!
Yeah Moscato can be good enough but...
You really don't go for Pigato?
Posted by: strappo | August 19, 2008 at 05:49 PM
Did you mean off the fence about Nero d'avola?
Posted by: strappo | August 19, 2008 at 05:50 PM
Sorry--Nero. Yes.
I like Pigato. It's got that saline thing that I also like about the Ansonica's I've had.
Both, BTW, are excellent with pesto, which I adore.
Posted by: Dr. Debs | August 19, 2008 at 06:05 PM
I'm surprised about the scioppettino and thought you'd add a few more grapes from Campania. Actually what are your favorite grapes from that region other than Greco?
Personally I'd add Arneis to the 10 to keep, put Pigato on the Ptoo list and replace it with Nero d'avola. What about Zibbibo? Definitely in my top 10. I agree with Dr. Debs because I love Dessert wines. I petition to reinstate parts of the Moscato family.
Posted by: Susannah Gold | August 19, 2008 at 08:17 PM
hate to say this old chum, and really hate to embarrass myself before Dr. Debs, who has my entire admiration and respect, but I have never heard of half of these grapes. and am I not supposed to like that A Mano Primitivo? it's pretty damn good for a cheap wine. on the other hand, as i write this i'm just finishing a dinner of lamb chops, marinated in red wine, garlic and oregano, and grilled outside over hardwood charcoal, with a bottle of Nickel & Nickel Suscol Ranch Merlot 2005, Napa Valley, so I'm happy as a pig in the sunshine. and humbly bow to your authority in these matters of Italia.
Posted by: fredric koeppel | August 19, 2008 at 09:58 PM
Fredric, address please? Would like to be where you are are, and ruby slippers stand by at the ready. For the record, have never had Ribolla Gialla or Marzemino and WTF is Tintore? So much for my vast knowledge!
Posted by: Dr. Debs | August 19, 2008 at 10:12 PM
God, you people. I have a headache from it all, or is it from the lovely Scacciadiavoli Sagrantino a all the amaro at Barbone tonight?
No matter. I'll deal with you lot in the morning!
Posted by: Strappo | August 19, 2008 at 11:21 PM
And corvina? where corvina is?? Don't you like Amarone della Valpolicella, or Recioto? Oh, boy...
:-(
Posted by: Lizzy | August 20, 2008 at 02:25 AM
Wow, three grapes from Campania!!! I'm very happy and proud.
I'll wait for you here
Posted by: Luciano Pignataro | August 20, 2008 at 04:18 AM
Wow, three grapes from Campania!!! I'm very happy and proud.
I'll wait for you here
Posted by: Luciano Pignataro | August 20, 2008 at 04:18 AM
Luciano -- 4 from Campania! You forgot Tintore!
Lizzy -- mi spiace. But I did put down Garganega!
Posted by: Strappo | August 20, 2008 at 08:23 AM
Dear FK & Debs,
It is my job to ferret these things out and to bring, as they say, good things to light. Tintore -- refer to my post about Reale Wine back on May 11 of this year.
Susannah -- I have a weakness for Schioppettino. Can't help it. But I did say it was my personal, idiosyncratic list. In truth I could have added a lot more varieties to the plus side -- a top 25 for example. But that would seem too even-handed to generate much discussion.
Posted by: Strappo | August 20, 2008 at 09:10 AM
what the HELL's wrong with refosco? you poopoo the whole moscato family, but like susannah said, zibbibo?! you can't tell me that you haven't had a passito di pant that didn't melt your heart, terry...your little black heart.
frederic--nickel and nickel?!! you must love to hemmorhage money for unworthy wines! try an aglianico del vulture...much more bang for the buck.
Posted by: tracie b. | August 20, 2008 at 09:31 AM
I SAID IT WAS MY WACKO PERSONAL LIST for Chrissakes.
My little black heart will gladly drink a passito di Pantelleria, but most Moscatos really are a yawn. Seriously.
Posted by: Strappo | August 20, 2008 at 09:34 AM