The "I" is for International
August 7
Stefano Illuminati is
an engaging guy. He seems laid back, which is perhaps part of the
apparent local culture, like in Napa or the way Napa was 30 years ago.
But this doesn't hide the fact that he is intelligent and eager to
expand the reach, the wealth and, not least, the reputation of his
family's firm. Which is why the firm has invested heavily not only in
new vineyards but in wood--botti and the smaller barriques--and in a
broader portfolio of grape varieties than the stalwarts of the region,
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and Trebbiano. On the way to lunch in Torano,
Stefano pointed out many times, "That's our vineyard," "We just
acquired this," "This is planted in Chardonnay as well as Trebbiano,"
and so on.
Though this goes against the new orthodoxy of the autoctono
(indigenous grapes) movement, it's hard to argue against it when you
taste the wines and, specifically, are able to make direct comparisons
between the local varieties in purezza and their more fuller, deeper versions with the addition of Carbernet or Riesling, for example.
Before we went to lunch we tasted six still wines. At lunch we repeated one of the reds and had a methode classique sparkler. It was an interesting and mostly rewarding exercise in compare and contrast.
The tasting at the estate consisted of these whites:
1. Costalupo (V.Q.P.R.D. Controguerra Bianco DOC) 2004
Simple, crisp, very drinkable white at 12.5%. Has decent acidity
thanks to small amounts of Rieseling and Chardonnay. Fermented in
stainless steel tanks, no wood.
2. Ciafre' (V.Q.P.R.D. Controguerra Bianco DOC) 2004
A four-grape blend of Trebbiano (65%), Passerina (15%), Riesling and
Garganega (10% each), this wine shows what a little blending can do for
Trebbiano. More depth, more interesting to the tongue during and after
it's been in your mouth. I liked this better than the somewhat higher
priced and more evolved Daniele, maybe because it is less "evolved".
In stainless steel, no wood, for maximum crispness and freshness.
13.5%.
3. Daniele (V.Q.P.R.D. Controguerra Bianco DOC) 2003
Maybe part of the reason I liked this less than the Ciafre' is that it
was from the 2003 vintage. A blend of Trebbiano (60%), Passerina (15%)
and Chardonnay (25%). At 14% alcohol, this white at least was not some
unbalanced monster, thanks to the Illuminatis' embrace of modern
cooling techniques, which guarantee freshness and pleasant drinkability
at the very least. Fermentation and gaeing take place in 25 hectolitre
barrels of Slavonian oak. But it struck me as no better than the
Ciafre' and actually a little less lively, I guess because I simply
preferred the all-steel treatment of that wine.
The Illuminati reds are the foundation of their good and rising
reputation. Just as Camillo Montori's whites are a standout in this
region, Illuminati's Montepulciano d'Abruzzo and blended reds set this
winery apart from its local competitors. These were the reds I tasted
before lunch:
4. Campirosa Cerasuolo (really a rose') (V.Q.P.R.D. Montepulciano D'Abruzzo DOC) 2004
A correct, pleasant rose' with good structure; the Montepulciano
d'Abruzzo character of the wine was apparent, giving it a "redder"
mouth feel and weight than you get in many rose's. This one would pair
well with almost everything except really hearty red-meat dishes.
5. Riparosso (V.Q.P.R.D. Montepulciano D'Abruzzo DOC) 2004
I've had this basic red many times in New York, a typical and pleasing
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Fruity and strong (13%) with a bit of tannic
guts, it reminds why this grape is the quintessential food wine.
6. Zanna (V.Q.P.R.D. Montepulciano D'Abruzzo subzone Colline Teramane DOC Riserva,) 2003
This was another experience entirely. Aged for two years in 25
hectolitre Slavonian barrels, Zanna (means "fang" -- I forgot to ask
Stefano why it's got this name), this moderately tannic wine has the
acidity to last for a while. This acidity is more in check than with
the Riparosso or any typical Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, no doubt due to the
time in wood. A balanced, delicious wine that feels "serious" when it
hits the palate. In other words, you don't just gulp it down with your
food, more or less without thinking, as you do with the Riparosso. It
weighs in at a moderately high 13.5% (or am I too old-fashioned when I
say this?). The grapes come from the Zanna vineyard, which is one of
the oldest on the property, qualifying it as a cru. It tastes like a
cru as well--it's got that much individuality.
7. Lumen (V.Q.P.R.D. Controguerra DOC Rosso Riserva) 2003
I am indeed an apostate of the indigenous grape faith. This is a wine
that Stefano is high on, in the business sense, and I can't blame him.
Even at 14% alcohol it exhibits a far greater balance than most wines
made of the local DOC grape. After all, there is sometimes a marked
tendency for it to be too acidic and a little shallow. Here a 35%
mixture of Cabernet Sauvignon, combined with malolactic fermentation,
gives the wine a roundness and richness of flavor that makes it,
frankly, more than just a "food wine." This is an aspect of Lumen that
the Illuminatis have sought, because a good part of the wine-drinking
public in certain countries wants a dual-purpose wine like this. The
beauty of it is that Lumen does indeed achieve this goal, yet it
remains essentially Abruzzese, or let''s just say Italian: not a fruit
bomb, not too strong, not so concentrated and rich that it smothers
food.
Another aspect of Lumen that makes it interesting is that half of the
vines from which it is made are trained in the old tendone ("tent")
method, while the other half is in the more modern counter-espalier
method, which is supposed to conduce to lower yields and higher
quality, and is certainly all the rage everywhere. Locally, it is one of the
few wines which is made completely of grapes trained in the
counter-espalier method.
This level of finesse comes at a price, of course. Stefano told me
that it would run about 20 euros in Italy, consequently at least $35 or
so in the States.
If Sophia Loren likes these wines, what's not to like?
Prediction for 2006 vintage
Echoing many of the winemakers in Italy and indeed beyond, Stefano's
prediction for the 2006 vintage is "Ottimo. Eccezionale." It's been
a very hot summer, but not as hot as 2003. He expects the wines to be
powerful, full of flavor, but not unbalanced with either excessive
alcohol or too much sugar. I sense a few more Tre Bicchieri in the
Illuminatis' future.
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