Most of the big guns in Aglianico are aziende whose vineyards are inland and upland -- especially in the rugged zone known as Irpinia, which encompasses most of Avellino province and parts Benevento.
The Province of Salerno isn't exactly a viticultural wasteland, either, and the critical and popular success -- "popular" as in ka-ching ka-ching -- of wineries like De Conciliis prove that Aglianico has a full and happy life outside the Taurasi hills, thank you very much.
I've written before that the coastal and inland typologies of Aglianico (and other Campanian varieties) are both distinct and valid. The nine I tasted just a while ago are clearly of the coastal typology -- generally softer, less hard and tannic at the outset, and gorgeous with fresh red fruit scents and flavors. Within today's selection, of course, there were wide variations, which is hardly surprising given the fact that this province covers fully the entire southern half of Campania. It's a big and varied area.
Before I share my meagre tasting notes with you, I must remark again how wonderful it is to see young people -- still in their 20s -- heading up the wineries. Maybe Daddy or Mummy owns the joint, but young Chiara or Francesco runs the show. Even though Italy seems to be lousy with oldsters leaning on canes as they hobble up steep declivities, a high proportion of young people are taking over wine. Perhaps more down here in the Mezzogiorno because the old guard hasn't the same stranglehold as in more evolved regions to the North. There are new things under the sun.
I can't bear these crowds: Aglianico tasting, ably led by a lonesome Maria Sarnataro, a newly minted sommelier.
There were more producers here than anyone.
The good, the very good and the bland.
Sorry for not editing. You want it fast or you want it good, huh?
1. DE CONCILIIS DONNALUNGA 2007
Strong black cherry perfume and taste, dark ruby color, a layer of oak that's not too intrusive. Suave and modern. Commercial but not a sell-out, know what I mean?
2. BARONE PIETRALENA 2008
Understandably still closed, this wine promises to be a knockout. Lovely acidity, lots of brightness, a little luscious than the De Conciliis but it will, possibly, become easier to drink through a long meal.
3. CARMINE BOTTI 2004
A bit of the lusciousness of #1, very good structure, same DOC as Bruno De C's wine, as you can easily tell. What a difference some age makes. Very long and nuanced finish. The young lady from the azienda joined Maria and spoke about the wine. She was impressive as was the wine.
4. ANTONIA RIZZO FIIX 2007
Very peppery, "nervous." Lovely bright red fruit tastes. Also plum notes as the wine opened. Most individual character so far. Very long finish. Barriques but second passage. Wood comes on a bit after a while, although it's never excessive. Good stuff.
5. CASULA VINARIA BRIGANTE 2008
So young and so vegetal. Not a in a good way. Meaty, beefy smell after a time. Tea. On retasting, leaves me cold. Give it some time, although I think it may not cohere.
My photographic skills again apparent
6. PIETRO SPERA TERRE DELLA TORA 2006
Comes from the same appellation as our Terra di Vento Aglianico ("Petrale"). Definite territorial similarities. It changed (improved) greatly after 20 minutes. Puckery tannins, peppery, perhaps a little green with wood. Some Merlot skulking around in there? The vines are very young, but there is the earthiness that we have come to associate with Petrale -- it is very striking on the nose.
7. VUOLO 2006
Similar to #6 but with a burnt quality that may be due to excessive tostatura of the wood? Probably my least favorite.
8. TIZIANA MARINO TURANDEA 2007
I've been following this for a while. Lacks a bit of fruit. Anise notes darken to licorice with time. Getting more interesting. I think this is her first vintage in bottle. Da guardare (to watch). She's just down the very small hill from Silvia Imparato (Montevetrano).
9. LUNAROSSA COSTACIELO UVAGGIO ROSSO 2007
This is 50/50 Aglianico and Cab. This is very bland and uninteresting, as I have told Rino Maggio in the past. He has a brand-new 100% Aglianico that is very promising. More notes about that soon.
Maria with her AIS posse, Franco DeLuca (l.) and Dino Savoia. They need them estinking badges.
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Posted by: vincent | September 27, 2009 at 09:34 AM