It's been a stressful week here in Strappolandia.
Like, for example, I thought I was having a recurrence of 1993's heart problems. Cold sweats, pains all over (chestward as well), nausea, deathly paleness, gasping for breath.
No, 'twas just depression, anxiety, panic attacks. They act like heart attacks, sort of. The tests came back with HYPOCHONDRIAC written all over them.
Depressive hypochondriac at that.
Still, what with Joe Dressner having his well-aired brain tumor and Kermit Lynch plinking out folk ditties, I wondered what I could do to become recognized as an important, aspirational sort of wine importer. You know, I'm not getting any younger and even though this wine gig is a new thing for me, I've got lots and lots and lots of Life Experience, which ought to count for something, no?
I confess that I can't hang my hat on some magical mantra (sorry for the shoddy alliteration) like Natural Wines*. Cue the heavenly choirs.
Yummy Italian Wines You Can Afford doesn't stake out the high-road position. Autochthonous Italian Wines isn't exactly a crowd-pleaser either. As the implacable Jeff Mazen would say, "It's business!" Business. Certo, sell we must. We're selling. Things are good. Shipment may get waylaid or forgotten about, but things are generally pretty, pretty good.
But it's not just business. It's ego. It's pride. It's the deep human craving to have one of those Sally Field moments every now and then." So," I ask meself, "what can one do to create an aura of almost hieratic importance in the world of wine importers?"
I've come up with a sure-fire Five Point Program to stoke the mystique of Strappo, the Odysseus of wine importers.
1. Always wear the shades. Never take them off no matter how wretched the lighting. (Nice when you're bored and want to catch a cat nap.) It is necessary to cultivate that aura.
2. Always wear jeans, the cruddier and more threadbare the better. Preferably with expensive Italian shoes and no socks and a Brioni shirt hanging untucked, as with a discreet sneer at bourgeois niceties.
3. Always refer to Rudolf Steiner and Luigi Veronelli with casual reverence. It can be done. This will win over the nut cases and the ones who revere a man who made a career of staying for free at many interesting stately homes throughout the country.
4. Mention at least three obscure grape varieties in the first five minutes of any conversation, e.g., "You simply MUST try a Tintore. It is the future of Italy!" (A categorical pronouncement always wins adherents.)
5. Regale all and sundry with anecdotes from the field. Literally. Per esempio:
I slipped and fell deep into the winter mud of the steep vineyard. Raffaele smiled wisely and said, "Now you know what it is like to be a natural-grape farmer. Is never easy. We fight the bugs. We fight the mold. We fight the heat. We fight the cold. But our passion for our tradition, that is what make us carry on."
Doesn't it all bring a tear to the oulde eye? Doesn't it promise authentic bliss in the glass? Doesn't it make me look like the intrepid son of a bitch you aren't, you routine-bound slave to your under-water mortgage, three kids and SUV payments?
On such wee foundations grand reputations can be erected.
* The Peroni Nastro Azzurro beer I'm drinking now proclaims "Tutti Ingredienti Naturali" on the collar label. Boh.
NYT "anything goes" Thanksgiving pairing post: Still up-ending wine journalism
Blogger response to my post ranged from dismissive (Frankly My Dear) to the "chortling" and "chuckling" variety (Do Bianchi). I especially appreciated Jeremy Parzen's use of the subjunctive ("Lest he think..."), not to mention the context which inspired it.
I can't speak for Eric Asimov or his tasting panel of radicals, but I received a torrent of emails and Tweets from anguished wine journalists, or aspiring ones (5). I received many more (2) from simple consumers. All were angry, confused, upset.
Typical of the consumers' ire was this note from Marcia Watson of Watson Holler, NC: "Damn you New York City smart-asses! I was all set to serve a nice little Chenin Blanc from the Loire, France, with my turkey BUT YOU HAVE THROWN ME INTO CONFUSION. I guess it's back to beer and ice tea. Speaking of tea, now I understand the fury of the tea-baggers. Jerk!"
Here's a heart-wrenching email that I got just yesterday from Ivan Scurry of the Council Bluffs Dispatch & Dollar Trader:
Dear Mr. Strappo,
I know you don't mean to hurt people with your sarcastic wit, but you've caused one more American journalist to enter the lists of the unemployed. Me.
You see, I've been the wine writer and reviewer for the paper since 1976. Or, rather, I was.
I started out with a bang. They loved my columns on what to drink at the Bicentennial*, and it led to the full-time union job with great benefits that I had until this week. I built my entire professional life around wine reviews and pairings for the holidays. I prepared from July, tasting, noting, eating and drinking various pairings. I did it with patience, dedication and good old Midwestern methodicalness. Oh, we aren't exciting or trend-setting out here. We're just hard-working regular people who want a good day's pay for a good day's work.
Thirty-three years I plied my craft, I honed my profession. I wrote a seminal work on Iowan wineries and wine personalities. That's a third of a century, Mr. Strappo. A working man's lifetime. I was young. Now I'm old.
And I was happy. I had a place in the world. People knew me in the street. Sometimes even when I crossed over to Omaha. My very presence seemed to bring a smile to every face.
Now they turn away. I am nobody. My career and life are in ruins. Thanks to you and those "trendy" folks at the New York Times. People who don't take seriously the struggles of ordinary Americans in the Heartland to wean themselves off of lite beer and cola drinks. People who forget how hard it was to gain all that wine knowledge in the first place.
Management used your words as the hammer to beat me with. "Goodbye, Ivan. Call us next week. Maybe you can freelance for us."
I'd kill myself. But I'm already dead.
Jerk.
Sincerely,
Ivan Scurry
* In the acclaimed "Bicentennial wines" series of columns Mr. Scurry created the "All Americans Wine Rainbow", which consisted of 100% American-grown and made wines with names that honored different American ethnic groups. It was a surprisingly inclusive list, featuring such favorites as Gallo Hearty Burgundy, Sebastiani Green Hungarian, Carlo Rossi Chianti, Manischewitz Concord Grape (a clever bow to both Jewish and white-bread small-town WASPs) and Richards Wild Irish Rose wine. It remains a masterpiece to this day.
Posted on November 21, 2009 | Permalink | Comments (0)