On our last stop before heading to Rome for the flight home, Jeff and I stopped at an enormous wine installation outside Modena. We were there specifically to discuss the wines of a small producer that makes methode Champenois Lambruscos -- extraordinary wines that make the designation "Lambrusco" seem pathetically undescriptive and unjust. (Made from the Sorbara subvariety, not the more common Grasparossa.)
We had tasted the wines at Vinitaly. We liked them then and loved them now. Stay tuned for further developments.
The CEO heard that we have our wines in several
Mario Batali restaurants here in New York. He insisted on taking us to lunch at
Hosteria Giusti, an old and very small restaurant in the center of Modena, since the late Adriano Morandi and Batali's father struck up a friendship many years ago, and it is been carried forth by the younger generation. Here Matteo Morandi runs the place with the kitchen magic of his sister Cecilia and especially his mother Laura.
You enter the restaurant through the salumeria ("Enogastronomia Famiglia Morandi"), which faces the arcade running down the length of the street. The enogastronomia is a small jewel of the finest foods of the region -- the best salamis and prosciuttos, cheeses, breads, wines, olive oils, Modena vinegars -- and the aromas are intoxicating.
You step past the counters, down a couple of steps, zigzag a bit and find yourself in a traditionally-decorated Italian dining room. (Heavy on the lace.) Roughly 14-16 people at a time eat as well as anywhere in Italy, I imagine.
The walls are lined with relics of old vertical tasting dinners -- Ch. Petrus springs to mind -- and old pictures of Modena and the Morandi family.
By the way, there is another entrance, outside of which is a tiny courtyard area for drinks. The name of the street is Vicolo Squallore -- Squalor Lane. If this be squalor, roll me in muck.
The meal was by no means one of those gut-busters that Italy so often presents to you at midday. But it was probably the most satisfying either Jeff or I had ever had. The starter was a small zucchini stuffed with pork and parmigiano, delicately spiced, prepared in a big padella (skillet). The cotechino fritto with zabaione, which is featured in one of Batali's books, is a stunning marriage of savory and sweet -- and, by the way, a superb pairing with the most fined of "our" producer's spumantes.
Aside from the spectacular "home cooking" (which it is if your mother is a culinary genius with her pick of the best ingredients anywhere), the warmth and good humor of the Morandis made a marvelous meal an unforgettable experience.
Matteo was proud of the Batali connection and noted that several of his family's recipes had shown up on Mario's menus. "We are collaborators," he beamed.
By the way, Hosteria Giusti is booked till February at this point. Reserve your part of the table, hock your diamonds and GO. Telephone: +39 059222533
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